No power after dash upgrade. Zip. Nada.
The next step was locating the senders and wiring up the ones that came with the gauges
Here's the tach sender attached to the first spark plug in the firing order. The closer you clamp it to the plug the better the tach signal.
Here the temp sender. This was a bit of a pain because you have to drain the coolant below the level of the sender before you install it, then refill to normal. (yes.. I know there's sediment in the fuel filter.. I guess it works)
The fuel sender I just followed from the gas tank to the wiring harness and spliced a new blade connector on. The volt meter was a simple + - conntection to the fuse box and ground.
This is the back of the original cluster. Don't toss this! Besides being worth money on eBay it's a priceless wiring diagram. I figured out so much just by following the circuits to the pin connector and then matching it up to the wires in the exsiting harness.
The next step was locating the senders and wiring up the ones that came with the gauges
Here's the tach sender attached to the first spark plug in the firing order. The closer you clamp it to the plug the better the tach signal.
Here the temp sender. This was a bit of a pain because you have to drain the coolant below the level of the sender before you install it, then refill to normal. (yes.. I know there's sediment in the fuel filter.. I guess it works)
The fuel sender I just followed from the gas tank to the wiring harness and spliced a new blade connector on. The volt meter was a simple + - conntection to the fuse box and ground.
This is the back of the original cluster. Don't toss this! Besides being worth money on eBay it's a priceless wiring diagram. I figured out so much just by following the circuits to the pin connector and then matching it up to the wires in the exsiting harness.
