Car stalling due to gas boiling in the Carb

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Paladin06

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All,

As the weather has grown hot here in AZ I'm experiencing the problem with the heat transfer from the engine causing the fuel to boil in the carb.

I'm looking for a fix.

Please advise.
 
dont use black rubber hose for fuel line it soaks in the heat...use 5/16 or 3/8 steel line..
 
I saw a guy once use header wrap to insulate his fuel line. It aint purty but it worked.
 
Like mentioned before, a carb spacer will insulate the carb from the hot engine.
If the gas is heating and turning to vapor in the fuel line, insulation will help and you may need to re route your fuel like if it's too close to the exhaust or the engine. There's foam pipe insulation available for 3/8" line at http://www.sandsinsulation.com/

toolmanmike
 
I applied a an insulation cover today and the spacer yesterday.

I'll also look at your recommendation.

Like mentioned before, a carb spacer will insulate the carb from the hot engine.
If the gas is heating and turning to vapor in the fuel line, insulation will help and you may need to re route your fuel like if it's too close to the exhaust or the engine. There's foam pipe insulation available for 3/8" line at http://www.sandsinsulation.com/

toolmanmike
 
Hummm, never thought about this one.

I used this over my hardline (3/8").

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/THE-14005/

Place it over the line where it runs over the tailpipe inside the framerail on passenger side (over the rear axle) and along the framerail from the torsion bar mount forward to the pump where it runs next to the header/exhaust.
 
Just crawled under to have a look. The line from the tank is about two inchs from my 2 /12 inch exhaust and the tank is even closer to the exhaust. Guess I better fix that.:read2:

I used this over my hardline (3/8").

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/THE-14005/

Place it over the line where it runs over the tailpipe inside the framerail on passenger side (over the rear axle) and along the framerail from the torsion bar mount forward to the pump where it runs next to the header/exhaust.
 
I had this problem on my '68 'vert with a 318. The spacer helped enough I could live with it but it didn't completely cure it. I sold the car before I tried anything else but I was considering using the intake gaskets that blocked the heat riser holes. What are your thoughts on this?
Dallas
 
I'd like to hear more about this fix.

I had this problem on my '68 'vert with a 318. The spacer helped enough I could live with it but it didn't completely cure it. I sold the car before I tried anything else but I was considering using the intake gaskets that blocked the heat riser holes. What are your thoughts on this?
Dallas
 
Is this a slant six or an eight ? I am assuming an eight

Could your Manifold heat control valve be stuck shut ? If you still have one.
 
With today's crappy 10% ethanol gas this problem is worse than in the old days. If you are running uncoated headers this also adds alot of heat to the engine compartment.

I run a 1" phenolic spacer between my Eddy 750 and Weiand Stealth manifold plus I wrapped my headers as much as possible to help out also. I run fuel injection rubber hose from the fuel pump and truthfully I think it would keep the fuel cooler than steel line around the engine.

No problems with gas boiling and easy hot starts.

Good luck with your issue.
 
Nice ride(s),
and thank you for you and your daughters service to our country.

Did you remove the heat control valve ? if not does it rotate freely ?
This would cause your Carb to overheat, if it is stuck shut.

Just curios, which car is faster ?
 
I'm having the same issues with mine, it'll litterly blow past the needle valve on my holley after it sits a few when i try & re-start it, An elec. fuel pump with a return system helps in this also, its basically just vapor lock at its finest.
 
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