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just use machinest dye to check valves valve grind compound leaves a line- right but the valve gets bigger with heat and the line is no longer in the right place you are not building a model A or Chevy stoveblolt

rumble got it right several pages ago me- stroked 340 but wait- that's a 360 much easier parts availability and on the street cu in rule cast cranks do not break and are a lot cheaper than forged most power per dollar starts with a magnum takeout look at it another way and start with heads or...

you are fine 302s need more bowl and port work to make more hp

keep posting post cranking comp when you get it together and mech comp

Some truck/motorhome heads, marine, industrial

back to first post-- blue would not be teflon

good moove make sure you have a good finish on your valve stems some cheap valves have the finish of files I put a fine finih with a Sunnen stem hone to give a nice crosshatch but a few strokes with some wet or dry paper works

not a318 hater it's $$$ to get a certain amount of torque now pick how much you want and sharpen your pencil

what you are missing are normalized seat durations looking at your list the clear winner is the shorter lunati just looking at how much shorter @.050 and the lift 340 cam would suck on a 8.25 motor- it's way bigger you want the best get mike jones [email protected],006 cam has 460 lift that crower post...

do not lap determine valve or seat you can check runout or swap a different valve if it's the seat the whole head has to come apart if grinding using a cutter not so much I touch all new valves, od hone the stems and check runout chk the guide clerance seats etc

The [email protected] duration on that summit cam pencils out to need about 9.7 compression ratio, same as 264 @.006 problem is it has no lift or area under the curve what did you figure your compression is now that you have your heads? did you post your deck clerance etc? if you do have around 9.7 true...

i'll take a look when I get back from the DR lunati is best choice for a shelf cam but which one

just pencil it out both ways just because you can do it does not mean you should A 360 magnum may be less expensive to buid even if you have to buy a core or just stick one in and go and do not use that cam even if it's free

teflon seals do not controloil as well as viton they are too stiff do a search

ixnay on the teflon seals what size now I like the 031 better than the 000 but nothing wrong with 9/16 use biggest that will fot in your inner spring get viton seals

yes

shape and velocity is better bigger can kill your low end = flat spot so unless you trailer and run high rpm only... same with big valves, big cam , big compression all have to work together

aj did you use something like (btw there is no "like") spray Hylomar? retorque the heads? tks and your analysis is spot on

before you break out that impact wrench know where you can get some u bolts they strip or break, strip you can double nut

with most duals you can use the larger or even larger stem seals I've had the .5 split right after machineing others after running and motor starts using oil OOOH TQ or TQ replacement all day long

That Isky camHL hyd (not) us 50 year old chevy profie Two Strikes and expensive we have much better springs available today We used to sell a lot of Megacams as they will overrev without complaint you can do a lot better than that long duration low lift profile

let's have the deck clerance without that detail plan to open up around the valves and stick a .028 gasket in it going to.060 quench is not a good idea

still do not think more lift is going to help with mild ported iron heads and you can go turbulent what I would do is advance the cam 4 degrees and try it if no change or loss then retard 4 degrees any change will tell you if intake close and duration should be changed new heads will give the...

.500 give cracked guides more often than .530 with 3/8 stems they called giving you a valve job with those big steps a valve job thank god I had a Serdi

Bick it up if the price is right always good for a trade and then grab a magnum block

what heads? what's the dish look like D or circle what is the deck clerance unshrouding the valves is always good and clean up the chambers

you would have to flow them to tell running open headers or through the mufflers? I doubt slightly ported could use .600 lift does the duration give you the rpm range you want? how about a pic of a stripe on the top of the valve stem you may need a b3 kit or change heads the TF heads do not...

is this an early hight compression 318 or a late low compression? either way the Summit cam will cost you torque low compression motor the 250 Voodoo is your best choice for a shelf cam the higher compression motor the 256 using stock gears and converter post your true compression and we can...

make sure the rear mount is not sagging down on the crossmember and rear end driveshaft angle

Great thread we used to run adj pushrods in early hemis not a brakage problem unless you ran the adjusters too far out