Since someone mentioned TV commercials..... anyone else tired of all the medication commercials? I mean, if you have "bulging eye syndrome" I think you already know it, no need to advertise for it. I swear most of these diseases you never heard of sound made up to me.
The world in general has completely lost their minds. People can identify as whatever species, race, gender or object they please and we have to act like its normal. Its only going to get worse. Wait until these kids are running the country.
I have been running carters/edelbrocks for over 30 years almost exclusively and never had a flooding problem when using stock style fuel pump.
The OP probably has a sunk float or trash in the needle valve.
I start it in neutral and let the pump fill everything up for a few minutes. Shut it down, recheck level and let it eat.
It doesnt hurt to let your car idle in neutral for a few minutes before driving it.
Sure it can, works fine. I did it just the other day. It wont do anything if no rust is present other than slightly etch the metal.
You can leave steel bare for several years if treated with phosphoric. However, if a drop of water gets on it it will rust. There are many brands of phosphoric...
I have used it but im inpatient and found its easier to throw something in the sandblasting cabinet. I agree, it doesnt seem to last very long.
Something like that trunk you might be better off hand sanding what you can get to and filling it with ospho to kill the rust. Use clay to seal off...
In my opinion, the tapered ones are the best. However, you obviously can only use it on one size. The old school spring steel wind up ones have always worked good for me. They just take a little longer to use than the tapered ones.
On my swinger I had 235-60-15. When I switched to big bolt pattern the tires were too close to the wheel lip. I ended up going with 225/60/15 and they fit decent. Its still close but not close enough that I have to worry about ripping the quarter panel off. The swingers have horrible wheel...
For a street engine go with the B&M flexplate. If you build a stroker it would be worth it to add the metal and internal balance. Im not sure how much metal would be needed with the stroker. Mallory metal is very expensive. Hell, even lead is outrageous these days. Has anyone priced body lead...
Around here, bank run is what you would use as a base. Its a mixture of gravel, sand and red clay and packs like a mutha. I also use recycled concrete which also makes a great base. You can tamp it down and its hard as concrete.
On the quarter to roof seam, you typically have no choice since they are usually rotted there. The correct way would be to tuck the quarter under the roof and that may require drilling a few of the drip rail spots. Another option is to cut a small slit so the roof can be lifted slightly. Another...
Drop the trans crossmember and let the engine tilt back. This might get it low enough so you can get to it better. If its a small block you may want to pull the distributor. Either way, watch firewall clearance while lowering the tail.
8 1/4 started in 73 in 340 cars and some 318 cars. This was also the changeover year to big bolt pattern.
I recently parted a 71 swinger slant six car that had an 8 3/4 in it. I had no idea until I got the car home and jacked it up. So never say never, anything can have one in it.
Wow, that is terrible. Its a shame considering what they charge for a damn intake these days. My RB six pack intake has a bunch of dings down in the runners. My guess is they used an air hammer to knock out remaining casting sand, that is what it looks like.