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    Bang for the Buck Thread

    Cannot beat cubic inches for 'streetable' power.
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    So very stuck...

    If you are making 400 hp with 9:1 CR, engine must have a sizeable cam in it. That means less idle & cruise vacuum. So trying to get a stock VA to 'work' could be an exercise in futility. Buy a cheap Chinese HEI dist, which comes an adj VA unit that has a softer spring [ Have used heaps of these...
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    Tunnel Ram Tune

    I would say a prayer to Allah for getting it run great.....& leave it.
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    Still hesitating

    It would be veeeery unlikely that you have an excessively rich top end mixture that is making the engine sluggish. Have you checked with your foot on the acc pedal to see if the carb is going to WOT? Might need an assistant to check. You would not be the first to find otherwise!!
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    Still hesitating

    If the truck is a little sluggish [ post #15 ]....... It might well be just the engine size & heavy load, something you just have to live with. It is what it is. The worst thing you could do would be to install a bigger carb on a sluggish engine....
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    Still hesitating

    No need for a bigger carb. It is well matched to the rest of the combo. Glad it is working for you.
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    Its me again lol

    The T-blades do not have the mounting holes centered, they are deliberately offset. This is done to help the blades self close, a safety thing.
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    Its me again lol

    The T-slot position in post #57 is PERFECT.
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    Its me again lol

    Post #20 [ my post makes 1000000% sense ] in conjunction with post #13 that I linked to it. That course of action [ more idle timing] does get the idle speed down [ slightly ] & also gets the most efficient idle for the combination. You get the idle speed down by doing idle timing first, not...
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    Its me again lol

    Did the 20* test improve or lessen the hesitation? Sometimes the fix will be a combination of two or more things, such as more timing + more fuel. But, yes, remove the carb to check where the T slots are. Here is a trick to check the T slot position without removing the carb every time: -...
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    Its me again lol

    You are all over the map. Try what I said in post #13. Forget about centri curves etc for now. The test drive is at low rpms to see if the off idle stumble is fixed/improved.
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    Its me again lol

    900 rpm idle & 14-15" of vac suggests a non-std cam, ie a cam with increased duration/overlap. That requires more timing at idle. This may not make sense, but PLEASE try it anyway, easy to do, takes 5min. Engine idling, increase initial timing to 20-22* [ actual amount is not critical ]. Idle...
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    So very stuck...

    Answer to post #47: yes.
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    So very stuck...

    [1] Turning the dist CW retards ign timing. And vice versa. [2] You are going off in all different directions....& getting nowhere. [3] First thing to do is understand detonation. It is caused by heat, load & insufficient octane. -load. It doesn't ping in neutral......because there is very...
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    So very stuck...

    Post #12 about using MVA is veeeeeeeeeeeeeery good advice. Maybe cut back the initial to 10* & add 14* [ at idle ] with MVA. An adjustable VA unit is also reqd, screw Allen Key fully CW. If you are not using VA [ either PVA or MVA ], then that is also contributing to the problem because the...
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    340 Chugging instead of Reving

    Great result!!
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    273 Commando w/front 4 Spark Plugs Black/Sooty

    Plugs all the same heat range, which is?
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    340 Chugging instead of Reving

    Open headers can lean the mixture. Try going up two jet sizes.
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    340 Chugging instead of Reving

    187 posts, time to say a prayer to Allah....
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    340 Chugging instead of Reving

    Post #157. Moving the dist one tooth does NOT change the phasing of the rotor to the segments inside the cap. What it does do is changes which cyl the rotor is pointing at.
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    340 Chugging instead of Reving

    [1] The centri curve is going to move the rotor position as it fires. Same with the vac adv. The dist will be made so that these movements are centered around the matching terminal in the cap. [2] The firing point of the p/up is just as the trailing edge of the reluctor tip passes the pole...
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    340 Chugging instead of Reving

    [1] Spark plug wire resistance is not the issue. I have a test where different wires with different ohms per foot resistance were used & the highest HP obtained was with wires that did NOT have the lowest resistance. The purpose of the test was to find out if wire res affected HP. [2] You do not...
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    340 Chugging instead of Reving

    Good one!
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    340 Chugging instead of Reving

    Haven't read all the posts but locking the dist & getting an improvement in how the engine runs does not surprise me at all. It nearly always does run better. I do not think you have an ign problem. Looking like wiped cam lobes, bent valve, burned valve etc.
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    340 Chugging instead of Reving

    [1] Plugs should be NGK 5 heat range. Colder will foul like you have now. [2] Unless the carb has been adjusted, I would expect a considerable amount of transfer slot showing below the pri throttle blades at idle....unless bypass air has been added. Too much slot showing causes a rich...
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    When you know no better....

    I agree! And Bakerlite, you would know about Penrite oil. Which I use. 10/10ths, $102 from Repco, $99 from Auto Barn, for 5L. I got it online for $80, which included delivery.
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    When you know no better....

    Yeah, I have a Rolon chain in the cupboard. One side of the link has Rolon on it, other side says India. Funny thing is, I cannot give it away....even for free....
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    When you know no better....

    Timing chain sets. Rollmaster had a very good name.....but there was also a problem with their original sets. They looked great, all those nice holes to reduce weight etc.... The sprockets were made out of hard steel....not hardened steel; easier to machine. But they wore quickly. I have RM cam...
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    When you know no better....

    It is a cycle...... After the USA rebuilt Japan after WW2, it flourished. Made a lot of cheap products. If your transistor radio lasted a week, you were doing well..... Then, quality improved. Improved to the point that if you wanted a quality product, you bought Japanese [ Mitutoyo micrometer...
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    Tuning issue on a 440

    Carfreak. Yes the rods MUST be down at idle. In a nutshell, you want the strongest springs that will keep the rods down at idle. I think you need to change the centri curve. You are getting half of the centri timing in by 1600. If you can reduce that with a heavier spring, I am sure it would...
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