Some plugs came out black, a couple wet, and a couple brown.
But it had been running like crap for a while.
When it was running good, they were almost perfect.
Tomorrow. Compression check.
Now, #1 intake valve begins to open about 10* before tdc.
But this is a 1 man operation and i...
Basically stk 360. Mild 260/.440” cam.
Made up of all diff parts. And I have changed a lot of stuff around trying to fix this, - so I guess I probably introduced new problems.
This distributor. A reman. Points open before rotor meet the post. About 1/4” before getting to it.
& I think...
Because when the spark is thrown, it would be nice if the rotor was under the post of the wire to the cylinder that needs to be fired.
Small block mopar, - single points distributor.
How do I close this thread?
7 pages of talk about Tony.
This drives u-bloob hits.
Let it go, and see what happens.
* “Next time on UTG” - Tony pulls the engine again! Wears out fasteners and re-thinks strategy.
He gets hits and sponsors as long as the soap opera plays and people tune in.
I was thinkin along the same lines.
Wires are on right.
I had/have wiring problems with a rotten harness, but worked out run1&run2. Ballast good, Coil power good, points & condenser good.
Rotor falls short (1/4”) of #1 post at tdc1. Imagine would pull further away with ignition advance...
Starts, Runs, runs badly, won’t take pedal. Bangs out the exhaust.
Im down to changing the plugs and maybe cap and wires.
It’s cheap enough.
Im tracking this problem down.
Found this on one of the plugs I pulled out.
What causes this?
My 10year ago 318 in my duster had Hughes 214/216 regrind, 302 heads, 600 eddy, headers, & 3.55s ran 14.2 and almost 17 mpg driving 180 miles back from the track.
Will you be using an AFR gauge for carb tuning?
You can cruise pretty lean w th right metering rods in it.
I bought a “new” rebuilt distributor a year ago. Points block wore down in 500 miles. I don’t trust the replacement points with the white/clear rubbing blocks. Look like a plastic that would melt at temperature.
Go to ebay and buy some NOS Mopar or Echlin brand.
I’ve seen that. But I’m an Edelbrock guy.
My concern was that the booster is larger and may cut down the CFM.
I’ve heard that Edelbrocks don’t flow the true advertised CFM anyway
And disappointed the new manual does not cover the tuning aspect like the older ones do.
was looking for the 1812 - Thunder Series. My brother’s 800 thunder took .4 seconds off my et over the 750 AFB I had on it. But, Seems they are no longer making them.
The book that comes with it is in English and Spanish. I thought they sent me the wrong book, but I realized I had...
UPDATE - finally got back to the track.
Edelbrock 800 AVS
Cut 4”” off collectors
Removed 70lbs of weight.
No fan, electric water pump.
Almost a half a second faster. It was a different ride.
And Yes, With the small Thumpr cam.
Had this issue, and what I found.
Run puts 12v to the ballast and drops V to the coil to about 7-8 volts.
Start bypasses the ballast and puts full voltage to the coil to help starting when the voltage is being pulled down by the high current draw of the starter.
* the key is - “Run” drops out...
Damn, think that's what I said.
Glad you found it.
It's nice to have springs that do not allow advance until above, say 1000 rpm.
That way, everything is static at idle.
mixtures and speed can be set without timing changes.
I agree w this guy. He helped me w something been troubling me for a while. - throw another Thanks.
Stuff you are dealing with is old and no telling how many people had their hands in it.
Set total timing. - to something comfortable. * 32 before?
Check idle timing. If its less than 5* - you...
Throw this in.
When warmed up, idle is higher.
Because the mech advance springs are soft or too long and distributor is already in the curve.
So advances at low rpms. And it may also be aggravated by dirty, hanging pivotal movement. & May not pull back.
Seen it, been there. - but din’t...
“backfeed” was the word I was looking for.
I jumped 12v from the battery to the IGN1 side of the ballast and it started right up and ran.
And wouldn’t cut off! Oh yea, the jumper!
Apparently the load in the IGN1 side is pulling the voltage down.
I the DkBlu goes to pin 1 of the...
I believe Wire to the relay and and Ign2 (assuming that is the ballast start side wire) are two separate paths from the switch.
Because when I jump 12v to the Ign2 side of the ballast, the starter relay doesn’t click.
Start over - ! Ha! Just wish is would start right!
73 Duster w electronic ignition.
I Disconnected starter wire from relay so it wouldn’t crank.
I put a test light on Ign2 when key on and it is half brightness.
Turn the key to start and it goes full brightness. OK
I put the light on Ign1 side...
Been dealing with this for a while. My car usually fires when the key is released to run.
I think I’ve found the problem, and just want an affirmation.
Believe my key switch is bad.
When I turn the key to start, run voltage goes away.
Is this normal? - I wouldn’t think so.