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we switched a neo seal on the hemi (back in the day) , just for ease of install. , but never had a problem on it either way , street hemi`s were machined "right" , never found one thing that wasn`t like the factory said ir was ...

still wont work if the stocker wasn`t machined right ...

I finally installed the cap/seal (under the car)and watched it pull side ways when it contacted the crank , got a new cap from >I dont remember , maybe you know him !---LOL was still some what ofa procedure to get it right , had to slide it over home made headless studs to get it right ---

I had real issues w/ my stock 440/505 seal, ended up finding the rear seal cap was machined off center on the \bolt holes , was off center when bolted down , none of the above would fix it !

hughs here on my 505 r/b , no problems , dont have to adjust but about once a year , then most are good...

got mine from hughs engines ...

I got too much oil to the top on mine , if I EVER HAVE TO PULL THE HEADS , I can slow it down with orfices in the oiling holes /////

I wedeld a stainless steel washer in my timing cover for the button to bump against , will still have figure out the .007-.0010 clearance on the button... you can further reinforce it with the correct shims , between the cover and the water pump > like some old chevy boys did -----LOL

thats whats on my engine now ...

I am not having any trouble , but do wish I had more pressure at idle...

your saying that a stock type pump had more low rpm oil pressure than a hi volume ???

with bigger headers, forward frame supports in the engine bay , bigger radiator , gets even more fun...

we had a new one in 1963 , they arent very fast to start with ! A friend had the same 63 ply. , was also red , his was a 318 , and it would eat the 361 for dinner .

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^this !!

I have a home built low restriction dual exhaust , 3 1/2'' mufflers , dumped in front of the rear axle . A pcv on the pass. side , and a pan evac on the drivers side , mostly streetcar , working very well w/ .600 lift street roller cam-----jfi

very interesting , but I wonder what kind of gas mileage that will get , I wouldn`t be able to feed it !

dont have that problem with forward J bars , altho thery are too close to the engine , make plug changes even worse, need to redo them-------

dont have that problem ------

why plug it at all ? 2'' hole will let engine out out a hair ---------??

A hole in the inner fender , cut in the right place , I still have to get underneath to even put the spark plug wire on , (raised port heads, tti headers) , good thing plugs last a long time w/ an MSD and ngk`s !

tell us about that 400 again !

agree^, looser convertor has a part in this too.

ur exhaust is way too small for a 500'' engine . mine idles at 1150 , adjust everything from there , timing is controlled by my f.inj. system. 20-23 initial , 3-4clicks leaner than self learn everywhere else. ngk-5 plugs. '' ur results may vary'' ---lol

rob, a .030 over , 440, with a 4.250 crank , is exactly 505 , and a hair---- my 1966 440 block only took .003 to put them at zero deck , which I thot was interesting .

not going to make a whole bunch of diff. , buy ur running the valves a hair loose , .018 cold setting should be .012 for alum. heads , and should run best about 34 degrees , ------jmo

I used the 3/4 grooved to start with---------r

we b-m J convertors for a while in the old hemi car, had 2-3 good ones , and 2-3 bad ones , switched to turbo action and had better luck with them , back then.. Was manual shift of course, traction was our biggest problem , tires weren`t what they are now for sure. Back to the Tick flow...

guess I`ll start saving the coin for that too----------lol

kick a$$ !!

Kent, I `ve kinda followed ur build all the way thru, since its so close to mine . Looks great to me !