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Yes, the 6.4 manifold does so. It is a longer runner intake that has the ability to adjust to a shorter runner with the motor. I have ditched that intake because of the extra work needed to get it to fit properly and because again, I prefer the power gain of the 6.1 as the gearing will make up...

Nope. Running a 6.1 intake manifold as is show in the photo of the engine (if visible). I may decide later to attempt to make an intake, but I actually know some people who are able to print manifolds, so I will work with them directly. They are a sub-contractor for my business and I am willing...

I'm looking to pick a car up in Townsend DE and ship to CA, if anyone is available, please feel free to DM

Thanks guys, but the BBK stuff is outdated a little bit. I am running LS and looking to get someone's advice that has run this setup. Until then, I will make my own.

I'm visual. If I can go by a list, then these are the big things, the little things come between completing each of the bigger tasks

I like to be thorough. A lot of the stuff is very quick, but I like to be detailed in my lists so I don't skip over any steps during the process. I also tend to write How-to's as I go so the car has it's own manual.

I just purchased a quick jack rated for 5000lbs. This should make life a little easier when pulling the engine. The quick jack is made by BendPak and it can lift a vehicle up 24inches in total height from the ground up. I eventually plan on installing air jacks, but the car needs to run to do...

I don't see a problem with being called correct.

just tell them its worth whatever someone is willing to pay

I would wait to do the 6.4 after the 6.1. Get used to what the 6.1 feels like, plus its none VVT, so easier to work with

I guess those pro mod guys are in trouble. Remember, both ways are correct. One is a fix and the other is a solution, but both will work. IF you can find a new block cool, if not run it with a sleeve(s).

I can, but the price is the same, especially if I am putting in the work. Otherwise it goes complete. You can sleeve your block...

Feel Free to ship the intake back to me when done then. Either way, there is an engine if interested. Best of Luck

I have one that might work. It's a 6.1 long block with intake manifold. It could be shipped on a pallet to you. Was looking to get 3500 plus shipping. Let me know what you think. It was going to be used for a build, but have no issues selling to someone who will use it right away.

Also, I had some thoughts on prepping the Engine bay. I'm holding off on it for now. I am still assembling this vehicle for the first time with all the new work done and being added. I believe it best to wait until it's assembled and I know where everything lives. This will help lower the chance...

They look cool? haha. You see that I am in the process of putting the car together, no? haha We will see when she's up and running. UPDATE: 12/20/22: - I have started a job on the side, but fortunately for now it is a home job, but I have time to get things going on the project. For Christmas...

Sanding and getting ready for fresh paint on engine bay

Not making new lines. Distribution block is just to transfer the fluid to the corners, no prop valve in an all drum/disc one. No need for a prop valve as told by Dr. Diff if the front brakes are bigger than front too. I have a prop valve that will be added in at some point, but I’m not trying to...

That’s interesting, I’d like to get some quick jacks and raise the whole car up at once, but that’s an idea I’ll consider too. Thank you

40ish mins to remove engine and trans. Sucks not having a lift for engine trans removal, but definitely can cut the time down. Cheers

Update: Just got a nice 33 gallon craftsman air compressor. And I got the engine and trans out to get into the engine bay a little better for prep

Just chillen with the little ladies tonight. Cheers

Update: So I got the kick down cable in from Amazon. I got the cheapest one to test the theory. Both the slide over Kickdown head and the ball cup clicking one will work. The kickdown slide over one is just plastic on this one, so I will be running the metal ball cup one for now. If it starts...

Hey! I would do the same thing. I enjoy R&D, and asking for help is half the battle that could save half the time. Look forward to seeing the progress and I am happy the market is coming around for them

From what I see on mine, yes… stocks are thicker. Also the metal ones are taller so rhey mess with throttle cable fitment too

Well i mean… you can create a spacer or make your own dipstick tab. Mopar didn’t cater for aftermarket usage.. so if you’re not going to buy one of every one and find it out, which my asking the question on here is doing in a way to eliminate R&D, then there’s only 3 options. I worked with...

Just add a spacer in underneath. No harm no foul. You’re asking for perfect fitting parts on custom cars. Perfect world means producing something that works without or just adding an aluminum washer and longer bolt edit: noticed this was mentioned. Would be nice if someone could make proper...

The Bouchillon cable is a GM F body style GM Throttle Cable for LS1 F-Body also here’s a possible bracket: Motion Throttle Cable Bracket for ICON 92/102mm for GM Fbody style cab And then the holley and jegs one: Holley EFI 20-148 Cable Bracket for 105mm Throttle Bodies on Factory or FAST Brand...

Thank you

Is the attachment on the side of the tb flat or a complete ball?