Search results for query: *

Residual-pressure valves were used through '72, then the drum brake cylinder seals were redesigned to prevent air ingress on brake retraction (which was why the RP valve had been present), so the RP valve was deleted. You can cheaply and easily make your brake system work a whole lot better and...

Aw, what the hey, since this is the thread that never ends, eh! As you said later in your post, it's because excessive pump speed ➙ cavitation ➙ reduced pumping efficiency ➙ overheating. …because that's not a thing. The water pump doesn't produce pressure, it just circulates coolant...

Yes, that's one way to do it. No, that's insulating tape. It's for if you decide, rather than horsing around with the box under the dash, to put the the clutch-cycling thermostatic switch (which is what this is) in the engine bay. If your low-side line doesn't have a capillary tube tunnel on...

Buy a radiator that's worth the money, effort, and time. Read this.

Hey, that's a neat trick!

Except it says "Body ground" where it should say "Good ground" (which means alternator housing or either end of the battery negative cable). Ammeter through '89, voltmeter starting in '90 on the D/W-trucks. But it was a shunt-type ammeter (not subject to the wire-melt problem), not a...

Read this.

3228 969 is a 904 for a 1976 AMC w/258 straight-six engine. 5353 would be 24 March 1976, which is a plausible build date.

Paint it however you like; if you do not first obtain our approval for your colours, we reserve the right to require a repaint before move-out, or the cost of same deducted from deposit.

I quit Fecebook permanently in '10 or '11. The cravings were constant for a couple days, itchy like mosquito bites for most of a week, then faded away over another week or 10 days. That shіt is addictive and toxic like cigarettes, and (also like cigarettes) they deliberately make it hard AF to...

Those are Mitsu 3.0 pieces. See here.

Did somebody say something about Chrysler gear-reduction starter sounds? (Part II):

Did somebody say something about Chrysler gear-reduction starter sounds? (Part I)

…don't really wanna be standing on the roadside (assuming I'm still alive/conscious) looking at my damaged vehicle and going "I don't care what the government says", either.

How many of the people you're in traffic with do you guess might know you're doing something other than stickin' your hand out the window? Legal, maybe, but it sure does raise the likelihood of getting hit. Me, I'd rather put whatever effort it takes into making sure my lights and signals work...

No. All factory Slant-6 water pumps had a 6-blade impeller. Cast iron or phenolic until around '67, then stamped steel. Recent aftermarket pumps have 8ish-blade stamped steel impellers.

Yes. Cars have to have front turn signals; that's not news. Is that a serious answer?

…and where, then, are we going to put the front turn signals? Those are kind of important. Let the Volvo 164 be a lesson in what happens when car designers forget that front turn signals and parking lights have to be there:

Don't strain your brain making this harder or more complicated than it is. Your speedo head probably needs rebuilt (consider its age!) and cable probably needs lubed. That old advice already mentioned upthread is here.

Yeah, Chrysler South Africa put the US '70 Dart front end on the Australian '67-'70 Valiant wagon body:

…which is pretty damn close to "Have you driven a Ford…lately?" (translation: "Haw haw haw, yeah, we made a buncha cars that sucked, didn't we! Haw haw haw, maybe you even bought one of 'em…or two, haw haw haw! But no, but seriously, you guys, now our cars don't suck as bad, this time fer sher...

Yup, totally agree. For post-'66 Valiants, the '69 face is my № 1 pick and the '67 is my close № 2. If we're at a race about it, there's time to go take a piss, stand in line for a beer, stand in line for a hot dog, and get back to my seat before third and subsequent placers come by.

So all the verbiage about '76 emission controls and manuals and such does not apply. You've got an engine configured as in the '60s, with a '60s distributor. Disconnect the vacuum advance hose at the distributor end. Stick a pencil in the end of the hose. Set the engine idle speed to about 700...

Here's a factory 4-headlamp '70 Valiant, and here's a '69, and here's another '69. These are Australian cars. The reason why they look less unlikely than the photoshopped US '69 is because the real quad system uses 5-3/4" diameter headlamps, not the bigger 7" diameter ones of the 2-lamp system.

No, with one exception: In 1960 (only), the 170 engine used a 3-1/4" diameter impeller. All other Slant-6 water pumps have a 3-1/2" impeller. There are no differences in hub placement or other dimensions. Please show us pics of the interference you're getting; it sounds like you might be trying...

Best answer is to have a good local upholstery shop make them. The kind you buy ready-made, from whatever vendor, is just never going to be as good in terms of quality, fit, durability, etc. Especially not since the market is dominated by Chinese con artists (and American con artists, too)...

Parts like this are fun reminders that before there were Chinese fakes, complete with ripped-off trademarks and logos and package design and stuff… …there were American ones.

Turn distributor upside down so the drive pinion is pointing toward you. Notice how the distributor hold-down plate is held to the underside of the distributor body with a bolt. Notice how that bolt goes through a slot rather than a round hole. There you are. Also, if you're getting significant...

Maker's site is here, and they have a find-local-dealer page. Or you can just buy it where everything else comes from these days. The prep fluid is alcohol, so if you have a cheaper source of gallon jugs of alcohol, gopher it.

Wull…I'm the one who wrote that linked article! Those "me/I/mine/my" parts of it are my own experience.