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If you are going to remove it, grind the spot welds from the bottom of the cross member. That way you don't have to drill holes. Keep in mind that cross member is an integral part of the unibody structure. You may open the body to excessive twist in that area by removing it.

I don't have any Dart drop offs at this time.

I didn't read it was 10 years old. I would probably get fresh stuff myself.

If you stir it and it's still creamy with no chucks, it's good to go. You can also add some "bondo honey" to make it more creamy if it's a bit stiff.

I believe the door shells should be the same for ht. or convertible. Vent frame is different and glass maybe as well.

Different years, Dodge's and Plymouth's, different models. You would need year and model specific to replace.

I don't know about new, but 64-66 hardtop and sedan rear glass are all the same. 63 rear glass is one year only and hard to find.

If the clear coat is delaminating, more will most likely follow. Might be where you need to fog in some base coat (could be color match issues) and refinish entire panel with clear coat. Remember, everything will need to be sanded for base coat/clear coat applications to adhere.

Probably at this point, you'll have to drill out the bolts, Start with an 1/8" bit and work your way up with increasing sizes. Try to get as near the center of the bolt as possible with the initial 1/8" bit.

I have a 76 Dart Sport and a pair of 73 Duster doors. The felts are attached with screws.

I'd redo it for all the people who are going to lie on the ground and look at your oil pan at car shows.

73-76 Duster hoods should be the same. 73-76 Duster deck lids should all fit 73-76 Dusters and Dart Sports. 74-76 use a larger lock cylinder, but overall dimensions should be the same.

Is the wheel house dissolved as well? If so, you will have to patch that as well.

When it's hot it sets up pretty quick. If you're doing a small area just use a small amount of hardener. The hardener creates a chemical reaction to the plastic filler. If you don't use hardener it will never set up. If you have bubbles in the paint it is probably rust. The only real way to...

AMD PN's for 70-71 Duster, 700-1370-L and 700-1370-R Check Summitt Racing.

Also drill a small hole at each end of the crack before you weld it up. Hopefully that will stop the crack from more flexing after you repair it. And adding a small strip to your reinforcing plate to make it a little wider to aid in a lasting repair. Like others have stated it will never be seen...

Your local automotive paint store.

To my knowledge all 63-66 A bodies have those foam inserts, unless they have been removed. I don't know about 67 and up.

Yes, Inner moldings will have to be removed. They are held in with clips. Then the glass and gasket will have to be removed. The outer stainless moldings are attached with screws.

There should be nuts on the ends of the pieces that go across roof. There should be plastic clips that hold them in the center portion. I'm assuming you have a 65-66 GT. The A pillar moldings and the side moldings are attached with screws.

I would use 3M strip caulk. It works great for that and pal nuts that originally used a little rubber insert to seal against water.

I believe 63-66 Darts are the same, only available from a donor car. Valiant drop offs are different. To my knowledge only available from a donor. Dart and Valiant outer wheel houses different. 63-66 wagon outer wheel houses different still. And to answer your question, using a 67 up drop off on...

I try to be as precise as I can, but that is just me. If I need to ream a hole for a better fit I would do so. If your car has been painted these issues would have been better addressed before paint. I don't understand the correlation between windshield moldings and drip rail moldings. In my...

Regulator, vent glass and frame all the same. I was going to put a Dart door glass in a 66 Barracuda, that's how I know.

Barracuda door glass. The hardtop doors are all the same.

Most likely there is rust underneath the bondo. That will probably require a patch of some sort and a lot of paint work. Under no circumstance install a vinyl top over that, that would only make it worse. It may have the same issues on the other side as well.

If that trim is in good condition for a 65-66 GT, that is desirable. I lot of the 66 parts are one year only. Right now the market is flat. This pandemic is probably going to have unemployment rates that exceed the Great Depression for a time. Some stuff I have for years before I sell it. The...

All 63-66 A body windshields, hard tops, sedans and wagons are the same. I believe convertibles are the same as well.

Those cars are basically structurally identical. Use a patch from the same area as where you are repairing. About the only difference would be where the bumpers attach and maybe upper tie bars and hood latches. 76-73 conventional bumper brackets. 74-76 the big bumper shocks. There are different...

A few years back I got valances, some trim and 3 beautiful door panels from a 72 Swinger at pick-n-pull. It appeared to be a rust free car. Some idiot had wanted something from the inside of the passenger door. Instead of removing the trim panel, they bent it in half. Another time I got all...