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This is as granular as my data gets, but I'd guess maybe not, given the note about CGE headlamps on Canadian-built cars.

This dataset covers '62-'74:

I'm professionally a vehicle lighting expert. If someone were to ask me if these reflectors work adequately, I'd have to say a quick and hard no. Those reflectors have a very important job to do; they handle a large chunk of the burden of making your car conspicuous enough to keep you out of...

Cool project! How about a flash photo of the lens so we can see if the red reflector works? Reflectors are very difficult and tricky to make them so they actually do their job, even using legit tooling and production techniques. As far as pricing goes…Wellllllll…

Direct interchange is '60-'65 A-body.

Use the 5/16" thick carb base gasket with grommetted mount stud holes; Walker № G850 or equivalent. Hard to find at retail any more; see if The Carburetor Shop will sell you one. Do the fuel line mod, which helps a lot with this kind of hot-fuel issue. Make sure your manifold heat control...

I noticed no such problem; mine went right in without hacking either the car or the radiator. This would mean it's never reaching full operating temperature; that's not good. You might need a more appropriate thermostat; see here.

1. Was your 200-mile trip all downhill with a tailwind? 2. Have you checked the accuracy of your odometer?

Glad to help. Just coincidence that this very morning there was a '63 Valiant in this CC post , which was part of why this snagged at me (the other part: if we mounted the licence plate on that bumper and put it on the rear of the car…where would the licence plate light go?)

Yepper. Two kinds of 7-inch (large round); one kind of 200mm (large rectangular); three kinds of 5¾" (small round), etc.

All of that is true and correct. Even spending money doesn't guarantee a good headlamp, though, the "Holley RetroBright" LED headlamps claiming to provide modern performance with old-time looks are a pathetic, expensive joke (Holley by brand only, actually made—poorly—in China by a 3rd party)...

Read this post.

Careful how much thickness you build up in your carb mount gaskets; you can lift the carb too high for the choke to be able to close all the way, then you'll have to make a new choke pushrod (easier if you start with the № 1232 electric choke kit). And lifting the carburetor up like that also...

Sir; no, sir! That is a front bumper, not a rear one—note the presence of the licence plate mount. The rear plate on the '63 Valiant was mounted to the rear valence. What's the part number on this bumper, do you know?

Nice work!

Yes…I guess this means it has the rotating-rod throttle setup? Must be an interesting cobble-up of parts to make that work with a Rochester carb.

…aren't a thing, last time I looked (the day before yesterday). Chinese-knockoff BBD 2-barrels, yes, but not BBS 1-barrels.

Okeh, but why not just replace the vacuum diaphragm for a fraction of that price?

Slant-6 carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download. Also find tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this post.

It's a '74; the original carburetor was a Holley 1945.

What kind, exactly, intended for what kind of motor? This is a carburetor-shaped can of worms. Good Slant-6 carburetors are harder to get than they used to be, but they're not impossible yet; you may wind up finding it easiest and best to go back to a more application-appropriate carb of one...

Full-manual valve body and always start out in 3rd gear!

I'm not saying it's impossible—it's not—but the steps usually go like this: 1. Take a close, careful look at the switch and figure out how it's held together. 2. Get a replacement cam. 3. Take apart the switch, being careful not to let spring-loaded parts fly away. 4. Fetch a flashlight and...

You've got mail.

PCV was standard equipment everywhere starting in '63 ('62 in NY; '61 in CA). There is no "correct" 2bbl intake manifold for a '65 Slant-6; the first factory 2bbl setup on the Slant-6—not available in the US or Canada—started in '67. Not til '77 in upper North America. None of the 2bbl intakes...

Chrysler didn't do away with the standpipe, but it was never provided on aftermarket pumps. The problem at hand sounds more like an issue with the oil pressure relief valve. Make sure it's doing its job, as described in these two threads: thread 1, thread 2.

Isn't. Read this.

No. The Feather Duster and Dart Lite had an aluminum 1-barrel intake. Yes. No. The 2bbl setup used in Australia, South Africa, and other countries used an intake different than the US "Super Six" item shown here. Your one carburetor, shown rightside-up, appears to be a '66-'69 273 or 318...

Yup, properly-done solderless wins. Read this (or if that link won't let you read it, try this one), and this, and this.