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Anyone else notice something weird and incongruous (to North American eyes) about these chases in a 1973 movie? Everyone's buckled in! They're all wearing seatbelts!

It can provide plenty of both. Welcome here. That Hydro guy sounds like an obnoxious, thoughtless dillweed; good job getting the car away from him.

'70 turn signal switches are one-year-only, and they're not available as aftermarket parts. The '71-up switch works in a '70 car, but has a differently-shaped hazard flasher knob. If you're talking about a smaller cam on your old switch, that sounds more like a '69-down switch. Oldkimmer's got...

This is from an article in Popular Science, December 1962, about transistor ignitions. It's even got A-body content! The price equates to about $810 (eight hundred and ten dollars) in today's money. The distributor cap trouble the author had was probably because his car had not yet had this...

Sweet! Tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this post. Carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download. For upgrades, start with this thread.

Only the headlamps are brightened by putting in a relay harness. If you want the rest of the lights brighter/working better, check/improve the grounds at all four corners of the car, make sure the feed wires and all connections are in good condition, and do like this.

Nope, that's a set of Capaci-Points. First pair I've seen an actual photo of; here are pics of where I know this from. This 1977 book was in my high school library—it's a low-level car maintenance manual stuffed with promotional sorta-ads for relevant products of that time.

It has "Neato!" built right into the name.

Outta stock, sorry.

HEI upgrade. Performance at least as good as most aftermarket systems, much better reliability, and much less costly.

You can get the vehicle build record from Chrysler by sending in this application with acceptable proof of ownership. That's unless your luck is bad and they don't have the record for your car, but they do have most pre-68 records.

No, it would be a manual (non-remote) round chrome one.

1302207704 1: Valiant 3: V-200 0: 1960 2: Dodge Assembly Plant, Detroit (maybe actually Hamtramck?) 207704: Serial number (first SN of cars like this was 100001, so this is the 107,703rd 1960 Valiant V-200 built at that plant) That's all the info obtainable from the vehicle number.

7081. It's stamped there on the carb below 3870902.

I wouldn't bet on that.

Check your valve adjustment. If they're too tight, you can get a rough idle when the engine warms up. Beyond that, and making sure you don't have any funky (cracked/spongy/holed/etc) vacuum hoses, you have the correct PCV valve, etc, tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this post, and...

Go read the article I linked for you to learn why your idea is not a good one.

That hose wants to see manifold vacuum. So you can tee it into the choke pull-off hose, or you can connect it to the vacuum tap on the rearmost intake manifold runner. Just as well; do like this and you'll wind up better off—the stock '74 setup using the throttle plate as a halfassed purge...

Same casting used for carbs with/without external bowl vent, with/without cold idle secondary enrichment, and with/without other features. Don't worry about it. Hook up the hoses that your car has to the correct ports on the new carb, and cap the unused ports. Easy.

There's not going to be a judge with a clipboard subtracting points because your car doesn't have a correctly-stamped carburetor. If it's a choice between those two carbs, here's 24 votes (both hands, both feet, all ten fingers, and all ten toes) for using the NOS Dodge van item, which will run...

1. Get a forklift with a Slant-6 engine 2. Watch this hi-larious German (because of course it is) movie:

Good. There's no rule that they have to be exactly, precisely the same—and there are good reasons why they might not be—but if they're more than a little different, something's wrong.

Many, many 225s have been easily made to run very well with 273-313-318 carburetors. Yes, slightly, and some other differences—in 1977 to 1983, when the American auto industry wasn't interested in doing any better than a halfassed, barely-half-funded job of cleaning up exhaust emissions, so...

You're setting yourself up for aggravation if you use a '70-'72 exhaust manifold. Its open-stove choke setup is a pain even with factory parts (leak-prone gasket no longer available; homemade solutions leak worse). That's on top of the other issues with old exhaust manifolds (warp, crack, busted...

It's a bolt from '60 until sometime around '72 or '73, then it's a stud from then on up, p/n 152 568, as offered here. If I recall correctly, the stud is larger diameter and thread than the bolt; on occasion when using later exhaust manifold with earlier intake I had to overbore that bolt hole...

Two real good reasons to disbelieve that claim: 1. There's no such thing as "DOT approved" — it sounds all official-like, but it is a meaningless phrase. US and Canadian vehicle safety regs do not work on an approval basis; the DOT does not approve equipment. Whoever claims a car part is "DOT...

That's a screamin' deal on a solid pair of lamps and harness. They're ECE (Europe/rest of the world), not DOT, so if that matters to you or the authorities where you live, that would be a dealbreaker. Otherwise, pounce and enjoy. Aim per VOL specs at aim page.

If the emblems are missing, check the VIN's first two characters. LL= Dart ("Dart 170" through '69) ; LH= Dart Custom ("Dart 270" through '69). Works the same with Valiants; VL= low trim line, VH= high trim line. There was also a "P" for premium, originally applied to the Dart GT and Valiant...

Where'd someone suggest that? Good headlamps put light where you need it and, on low beam, keep it out of other drivers' eyes. Lousy headlamps don't do one and/or the other of those things. Speaking as the guy who wrote the (literal 38,500-word) book on the subject of headlight glare: you're...