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In regards to collecting data. I’m currently logging AFR,engine rpm,throttle position, drive shaft rpm and g force for a total investment of $700-$800. Not your Racepak plug and play sensors,but not real hard to do.

The most dangerous thing is someone with a little information who makes incorrect assumptions from that information. I regret this already, but answer me one simple question. How does the presence of lead in race fuel not change the appearance of the plug compared to an unleaded pump gas? You...

There’ s a bunch of fuzzy thinking here. You believe that the fuel distribution throughout the cylinder at time of ignition is vastly different? “Try a lower octane” octane is burn rate. What is burn rate going to do for AFR. I’m trying man, but I can’t remember anyone saying the color of plugs...

9.5” converter?

the coloring will be different pump gas to race gas. The VP blue I run is…..well…. blue. The dye and the lead effect what the plugs look like. C12 is green. The cut plug I posted is more than likely VP blue.

Sorry, was interchanging terms. I don’t care about my stall number really. I wanted flash to 3500 and they speced 5500 flash because they didn’t read the sheet and pretty much everything else in my combo would like 5500 in flash. The 6” tire and my description of the class just says no! :) I’m...

Have two converters by them, very happy with both. I did fill out the spec sheet for the last one sent it in. I got a five word email response that told me they had not read the spec sheet. “8” 5500 stalll,$950 + shipping” Went through CRT to get it and it flashes to exactly 3500 rpm. Which is...

Fuel pressure does not mean fuel in the bowl. Don’t think fuel is your problem though. An issue I ran into is the rotor being too high in relation to the cap terminal. So the arc marks were up not out towards the terminal face. It would flutter a bit at higher rpm’s. Very subtle. Filed the...

Do you have a 4” angle grinder? With a cutoff wheel cut the crimp. Red line and pull the porcelain out. This is what you’ll be left with. Don’t compare yours to this though.

Yeah, FAST wasn’t there, just looking to run the car. Atwood’s would have come down if it got bumped to Sunday. The weather kept Bill D away. The others are just lame!!!:)

Then in the “last chance” round, left a bit early. Hard to run a sportsman tree for me. Saw his win light so I just legged it out.

Then drove over to Maple Grove and made 6-7 runs. Pretty wet air, and cold, was a bit squirmy. Two competition rounds. Lost in the first round. I dumped at the line until he popped up to my door, but not enough.

Made one run at Cecil County on Friday for street night. Then it sprinkled. Lot of moisture in the air, but happy with the run. Chicken footed it a bit according to the data.

Either stepped on the throttle because she was pissed and it was taking too long to get to the turn or throttle issues.

Looks like the tires didn’t lock but started to spin.

I drive 13-16 hours a couple of times a year to run and went to Gateway once. The recipe isn’t a secret, get 4-8 racers with cars and interest and reach out to a track near you. Tell them you run a Stock Appearing Stock tire style and see if they will give you a lane for a day. There is a group...

Working on it, a group will probably head down to Musclepalooza for the 4/13.

Cecil canceled due to weather. Used the two days off to work on a project. Will probably run musclepalooza or NPK’ 7.0 class and get smoked, but want to run the car. Tired of trying to figure out how much freeing up 20 ft/lbs of torque and dropping 39 lbs will do for me!!!

I know the seat pressure on Dave’s old Roadrunner is more pressure the my over the nose pressure and the springs survive maybe a season….. They replaced them beginning of last season and broke one at MIR. At some point it has to be like pro stock, spin the tire and change springs. I’m sure...

When I got the master cylinder in 2009, they said disc/drum, however this was just after I returned a rebuilt one that the piston looked like some beaver gnawed on it! It does have equal size reservoirs on it, but the size difference was never an issue, I really should have gone looking more. I...

Well it’s official! I’m a Dumba$$! When I built the car in 2009 I was never happy with the drag in the K&H front brakes. Over the years I played with them but no real change. I just chalked it up to that being how the K&H brakes were. After installing the new brakes they dragged also. Played...

So the brake change resulted in 38 lbs total off the car. 18 lbs of it rotating weight. The

The disc set up weighs 25 lbs without the caliper.

The total kit weighs the same as the original rotor.

Rotating weight will be 9lbs half what was on there.

Nice kit.

Also I needed to drill the spindle for a new cotter pin location. If you don’t use the thick keyed washer, the original pin hole works fine. I don’t really know what the purpose of the washer is. The nut contacts the inner bearing race fully, which is what matters. The washer keeps the grease in...

I’m sure there is nothing there to worry about, but the thin spacer will just give room all over. The kit is nice, just a couple of things I ran in to. They expect you to be putting the kit on a car WITH 10” drum brakes. Not using 10” spindles on a disc car. So I wasn’t expecting to need to...

So, decided to lose some weight out of the brakes. I’m currently running the original Kelsey & Hayes 4 piston front brakes. I have to run the steel 14” wheel. The car currently has small bolt 14” wheels, but I will need to change to big bolt pattern. The big bolt wheel has more clearance at the...