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That might be true but I think the OP thought he was buying a wedge block so the assumption is that it would come properly machined so he could bolt on a set of wedge heads. Someone at the factory will know what the issue is. My guess is that someone mixed up the CNC programs and that block got...

I find the discussion irrelevant. I have a fair amount of experience with engines in the 900+ hp range that use store bought, box stock rocker arms. They hold lash, don't break, and run just fine for multiple seasons. So that covers about 99.5% of what anyone on this board is doing. There might...

Most of the time the HP stamp is the same font but I've seen a few that used the larger marine or MW type font. I don't know why that is. Maybe a different factory or something?

I had a B426 block sitting in my shop for a number of years. I was told that the C body cars got a 426W for a short time in 1966 but that doesn't seem to be common knowledge so I guess I'm not sure where it came from.

I gave the OP all the information he needed to pick a set of rocker arms back at the beginning. The rest is just a rehash of an old argument that had been going on for a long time.

You can get more lift with a shaft mounted rocker arm by changing the pushrod length. I used to use this trick on my dyno engines but it comes with a price. For extra salt in the wounds, the extra lift often doesn't generate any more power.

If you're putting together the shortblock you'll need to know which heads to use. You can't use B1 heads with the same pistons as 440-1 for example. Also, your compression ratio will be different with different heads. If you bought the pistons before the heads then you did it backwards. If you...

That would be a 1965 426 Wedge. Do you need one for a project car? The guys who have original '65 street wedge cars will pay a premium to find an original engine since they are a little hard to come by. Mopar didn't build a lot of 426 street wedge cars, that engine wasn't available for very...

Not really any visual difference you have to look at the stampings on the ID pad as well as the casting number. If it is a bare block then measure the bore size since that is the major difference. The 426W wasn't super common in passenger cars but sometimes you'll find the industrial version...

We use the Comp rocker arms all the time and haven't seen any issues. They are about the only rocker arm that I trust to last on a street car with a solid roller cam. For drag racing the aluminum arms work fine, especially if the engine is maintained by a mechanic who actually takes the valve...

I remember Hubard's shop from back in the 70's when I lived in Hayward. They always had some hot stuff in the parking lot back then.

There is a long history to that. Mopar Performance used to say that the 050 number was meaningless and they wouldn't publish it. Then they said that you could multiply the advertised duration by a factor and get the 050 duration. I think that is where the 236 number comes from. Then they changed...

I've tested just about every Mopar big block rocker arm that has ever been sold. Here are a few on one of my later tests: Trying to Find Extra Power Through Rocker-Arm Testing

Mock it up and see. On my car I had to chamfer the rear mount ear but I didn't have to cut it off.

But you aren't the OP. Far as I can tell, the OP doesn't need anything fancy. A set of used Isky nodulars would probably work just fine for what he is trying to do. If he can't find them then the best alternative on the market these days is the Comp steel rocker arms. One of the cars I help tune...

In the old days the Mopar 0.528 would've been my first choice also. These days Mopar charges a lot for that cam and the quality is a little suspect. So if it was me I'd try to find a shelf cam from a trusted source that had similar specs. The 0.528 had a wide 112 lobe center (which is out of...

True, but hyd flat tappet and hyd roller cams will also pull past 6000 rpm if they are set up correctly. The cam test article that I linked to had a hyd flat tappet cam that I spun past 7000 rpm and my current hyd roller doesn't have any problem going well past 6000 rpm. But you do need to use...

The old Mopar 0.528 solid will pull past 6000 rpm and it is only 236@050. I don't think I'd go much bigger than that for what the OP is describing. Kind of depends on some other factors which he hasn't mentioned but too big of a cam will make things much worse than too small.

The Mopar 0.528 cam will pull well past 6000 rpm in a 440 if the top half of the engine is up to it. Those 915 heads will need to be professionally ported and you'll need a good intake as well as a good exhaust system. I tested a bunch of cams in my low deck 470 years ago. That engine had HP...

A steel rocker arm is the best for reliability and durability. Not a lot of steel rockers on the market though. Comp makes a good set, RAS are great rockers if you can find them. The factory nodular rockers work fine if you can find them or old Isky nodulars if they haven't been abused. I run...

That will probably work okay but I think it would be better if you used flexible lines. And the lines don't need to be very big, #3 or #4 will be fine. There isn't much air flowing thru the vent.

I agree, a Sniper will work just fine. I just finished tuning a Sniper on a 700 hp big block. Starts without touching the gas pedal and sits and idles as long as you want.

All pushrods are hollow since they are made from tubing. You can order different wall thickness but passenger car engines are usually fairly thin wall tubing. Chevy pushrods work just fine as long as they are the correct length and have the correct ball diameter on each end.

EFI on a Mopar big block is a "do it yourself" sort of project. There are plenty of parts available but none of them are really beginner friendly. You'll need to do some research and follow instructions to put EFI on a big block Mopar. Good luck.

You don't need a return line with that EFI fuel tank module. Just hook up the pressure line to your existing fuel line and then connect the fuel line to input at the Sniper. Cap off the return fitting on the Sniper.

I wouldn't build anything larger than a 505/512 for a street car since you want to keep the oil pickup inside the pan. A 440 based 505 or a 400 based 512 will fit okay in an A body car but it does require rounding up the correct parts and then some talent/skill to put it together. A 408 or...

That is an okay price for that collection of parts but you'll never know how good of a deal it is until you run it. The problem with custom built engines is that it only takes one small part to be wrong and the whole engine can go south really quick. So whoever put it together needs to have done...

That isn't an easy car to build. Are you sure you want to take on that project? Do you have much car building experience? You might want to go with a small block in a '66 unless you have lots of time, money, tools and talent. Or use a 727 transmission. Having to build everything from scratch...

When you talked to the cam company did you tell them that you have a double OD transmission and that you want to drive in OD down the freeway? You are not going to be able to have a max power cam that also works in OD on the freeway. If you are going to drive in OD on the freeway then you need a...

Maybe, maybe not. I always order chamfered bearings when building a stroker engine since I'd rather be prepared than find out too late that I need them.