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There are several vacuum plating services that restore dash bezels and other plastic parts. GCAR is one that I have used. They do a very nice job but it is expensive with a long lead time. It's not really something you would do at home..

In the one-sided mount (i.e. 1967) any looseness is fatal.

If you read the tire manufacturers' recommendations, the widest tire you can fit on the stock HD 14 x 5.5" wheels is 215 (so, 215/70-14). If you have the standard 14 x 4.5" wheels, it would be 205/70-14. I am assuming A56 is running 235/60-14 because 235/70 would never fit, and I don't think...

The 67 brochure I have does not exhaustively list every feature of the interior decor option. But the text never mentions wheelhouse carpet, and it is not shown in any of the photos.

I have also noticed that the idler arms have too much vertical play unless you add extra washers.

If you want to save yourself the trouble of cutting and flaring brake lines, you can mount it parallel to the distribution block (side by side). You run the rear brake line into the PV instead of into the dist. block, then get a short length of pre-made brake line from the parts store (15-20" or...

You don't have any online registration???

If they would ever do their research and realize how many cars actually use this part, they would run a batch of 10,000.... but, no.... It's idiotic that you can't get these, but you can get 9" front drums, which nobody wants... (just venting)

Exactly — a split boot secured with band clamps would at least help keep the grease in place and the road salt out.

Yeah, that's the part number — the problem is it has been out of stock everywhere. Though I haven't checked over the last month.

That's great that you got your measurements. The rim location is constant compared to the pivot axis of the ball joint, but of course the "droop angle" affects the clearance to the arm itself, so it's good that you are checking all the angles. I'm not sure how the chassis weight would make any...

You can't expect to see instant height changes when turning the adjusting screw. And measuring from the ground to the body is not how you measure ride height. Read the Factory Service Manual for a description of how to measure ride height, and how to adjust it properly. At the very least, you...

Scrub radius is not an issue since you are not changing the offset at all. But AJ's idea about stacking some washers on the studs, then mounting the wheel is a good idea. Measure the clearance, then subtract the height of the washer stack. Even easier than my idea. I don't think the factory...

WV is nuts — small bolt pattern center holes are 2-5/16" (2.3125") — not 2.75" (that's FORD). 2-13/16" is Mopar large bolt pattern. Don't you have an OEM spare lurking in the trunk? Anyway, you could still try my "putty" test using your mags. Just need a bigger blob. Here's my 67 FB with OEM...

The factory used blobs of "dum dum" putty. I found some online and just rolled balls, flattened them and shoved them between the inner braces and the top sheet wherever it seemed necessary. Totally cured the hood shake and it isn't visible under the insulation pad.

I was going to say I doubted that there would be a rim clearance issue based on a mere 1/4" additional width on the inside edge, but then I went out and looked under my car, a 67 FB with factory discs and 14 x 5.5 Mopar rally wheels. The clearance between the rim and the upper control arm was...

I agree with the previous comments, plus I don't think you can even do it because you have to drive out the pin in the lower shaft in order to pull the shaft and have decent access to the springs. I bet you can't even see the springs in the distributor while it's in the car, unless you lay out...

The first thing you want to correct lean is an anti-sway bar. T-bars and shocks are NOT primarily about lean. Shocks control rebound and overall ride quality. Stiffer springs (t-bars are springs) give you a stiffer ride — this does reduce lean but it also affects ride quality, so it's a...

I would dispute the claim that the tank grounds effectively through the frame. There is insulating packing between the tank and the trunk floor. The only contact would be through the strap which is only potentially grounded at each end. Many cars are undercoated in this location, and otherwise...

I basically did what Dana describes, except I ran both front and rear lines through the metering block as per factory installations, then added the proportioning valve to the line going to the rear axle. This is very easy to do without cutting and flaring if you just buy a short (15" or so)...

Yes, I did a K-H brake conversion on my slant six Barracuda convertible, and just bolted them right up. I admit I did not inspect them later to see if there was any wear on the caliper boots, because I was not aware of this particular issue at the time. I have since sold the car, so I can't go...

Another alternative is to look for cross drilled and vented performance rotors. I managed to find them from two different vendors at different times. The last ones I found were (IIRC) Power Stop brand. I found them on eBay. They were very nicely machined. Oh, I see Vames just posted about them...

I believe rally wheels were ALWAYS an extra-cost option. If they were standard, as your friend claims, there would be no full wheel covers for those years.

It seems like you are asking them to produce a different width of beauty ring for every different wheel offset they offer. Or at least, that's what it seems like it would take. No? If they are just reproducing the factory beauty rings exactly, you would expect them to fit a 5.5" wide wheel, but...

Well, I would think it would be the ones the FACTORY put a big block into... 67-69 Barracuda and Dart. Although I expect all the 67-and-up engine compartments would be basically the same.

You have added so many adjustment points into the system that you might be better off taking it to a professional shop — and not just a local tire shop, which will complain "it's not in the computer" and then try to match the exact specs in the FSM (which are horrible for modern tires). You...

Are those blue or bright white? I tried blue LEDs because I thought it might be a neat effect, but I found out I was almost colorblind to that wavelength — I could tell they were illuminated but I couldn't read any of the markings at all. I hadn't taken into account that there are blue lenses on...

Oh yeah, also remember the fuel gauge runs at lower voltage, so always run the 12V through the IVR circuit — don't connect directly to the gauge pins if you are testing the gauges as well as the lamps.

Are you saying it has Edelbrock heads or stock heads? With stock heads it's unlikely there is anything left to get above 5000rpm.

I happened to have a model railroad transformer, adjustable from 0 to 24 volts. It made bench testing easy — no clumsy jumper cables and I didn't have to pull a battery from a car, I just added alligator clips to the output wires.