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Yeah it be fun but expensive to do it right. Sooner or later the valves will leak, if the company is out of business come 2015 your out of luck so try to guess which companies still be in business when yours wears out. I would guess its best to close the valves with the engine off--at least...

So 1 to 3 car lengths in the 1/4 mile I think gearing plays a big role, cars with 4.10--4.56 gears aren't as picky on its exhaust

Cause manifolds don't leak, take up less space and in my case didn't lose that much HP. More so it full 1/4 mile runs. For a short 3--5 second blast the manifolds aren't bad

And 5, 10--20 years later on you can resell the HP manifolds. With headers they "age", maybe after only a few years the headers will still have a good re-sale valve but if they rust and warp good luck getting $100 for them. HP manifolds are like gold, so long as they don't crack the re-sale...

They were not cheap, that is for sure...but I bet they last a long time without changing the sound much. Its hard to say without driving it on the road how they sound. It change as the car moves...should be deep and mellow.

Those shops are I don't know--full of it--I know a great exhaust shop and all there is too it is to wire brush the old pipes clean so the weld will stick. That and some custom pipe bending...what do they want, just to bolt it together. If it was that easy you would do it yourself, lol.

Nah, what you want is those high buck electrical exhaust cut outs that Summit sells. Then you could now and then, at the right times have NO mufflers on that motor :finga: But don't go crying here if somebody filps out on you.

You could run 3" to the mufflers and then run 2 1/2 after them. A muffler shop can do it no problem and 2 1/2 will go over the rear axle easier than 3" will. I doubt if you could really tell the difference on the street.

I believe there are header bolts with allen heads, those are the ones to use. Otherwise one may brake someday, either taking them off or maybe just from the heat and you be pulling the head off to get the bolt out. Can't say you were not warn.

I have headmans so maybe this won't work but maybe it will. Start the bolts before the header is on the head all the way and start thightening them as the header comes up to the head. I would use a thread sealer on the threads--not thread lock, it might break taking them off. I also got S & K...

Oh you could cut the lip away on the valve cover. Thats what I did for the intake. Now I can pull the intake off without removing the valve cover--Not that I would need to, but I did it anyways. Guess it could leak but there are great gaskets and sealers now of days.