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Yes, the T-10 was used in 1963 Mopars, but to my knowledge, not in A-bodies.

There was a batch of those reproduced years ago. I don't know who was doing them. I have a very nice one on my grille, but I don't really want to trust shipping two ways. The car is apart.

Those are fine, but not quite what I'm looking for. If I could buy them with only one end and was able to crimp the ferrule on the other end after I bend and cut to length.

Yeah, I have one of those tools, but I don't have a tool that does the other crimp/flare that captures the nut or ferrule. I have found them, but they are even more expensive and might not have the die for 1/2".

I've got the crimp tool. I want less hose and more tubing...without spending $500.

Their tubing price looks high. And, they don't show the tools I would need to flare the tubing correctly. I'm still hoping to find some place reasonably local to me. I've got one other place to check.

Ok, different question. I'm trying to get my AC lines done on my Barracuda (Classic Auto Air). None of the fittings they sent will work and they sent two lengths of #8 hose and no #6. I don't really care about that, though. I would like to run more tubing than hose, but I'm not finding a vendor...

Decided to direct hard mount the water valve to the inner fender. Got the heater hoses installed today.

I have one of the crimp tools. Results on the last AC system i installed were hit or miss. Theoretically the crimp is only there to keep the hose attached, but some never did seal completely so I don't know. There is a line on the tool to tighten it down to so that you don't over-crimp, but that...

Looked at the water valve and the instructions yesterday. It looks like there should be a bracket, but no mention of one in the instructions. It appears that they just want the valve hanging loose. Another dumb idea as I couldn't find anything that looked like a bracket for it. One more to...

PM sent

I am looking. I made some that are close, but I'd prefer originals. What do you want for them?

We've run short links to clear late front mounted calipers.

I'm not going to hide the lines, but will go hard line for most of it as I think it will look cleaner. The hard lines will also clear the distributor and air cleaner better. I'll be running the big tube up the right side of the intake with a short hose for vibration. The Classic kit has the...

Any VIN information in the Barracuda manuals?

Hopefully, I'll get my manifolds back this week. I had them surfaced for a little more clearance, but my buddy has been hard to get ahold of due to family members being in the hospital or passing away (yeah, this is the truth). Having them out made the spark plug change much easier...

Got the AC box installed yesterday. Had to cut firewall insulation away to fit their bracket. I also had to make a new block-off plate. I still have to seal up the holes, but I'll do that later. I'm likely going to buy some custom length hard lines instead of using hose everywhere. It'll fit...

Pulled the console base out of my Barracuda yesterday and found two pieces missing. I can probably fabricate them, but it might be easier to find them. They go at the back. One is the detent for the lid and the other is a cover.

One more thing I forgot to mention. This will NEVER be a "nice" car. It's set up to be a track day car that is loud and obnoxious, just the way they ought to be...

Two more pics.

THIS CAR DOES NOT RUN. My son's Barracuda is back on the market (it was for sale a long time ago). This car started life with a slant and an auto, but early on is became a 440 powered drag car. To say that the 440 install was a hack job would be a gross understatement. We got with no engine or...

Unless you need pistons it's not worth the cost, especially with the available fuel. I suspect my 440 is around 7.5 with a 284/.484 cam. While I haven't driven it yet, I think I will be happy with it. It's just a simple street cruiser.

I do have a factory duct that I plan on using instead of their cheap plastic vents. So, it will look more factory than not. The brackets I made move the condenser forward by about 1/2" The radiator (Cold Case) should wind up about an inch behind it. The radiator will go back in soon.

Yes, 440. And, not an original AC car. If it was I would upgrade the factory system. We did that in my old '67 fastback when we put the 383 in. We never got it all sealed up and charged, but it all fit.

We've discussed their perfect fit system as being anything but. I did get the heater core tubes bent to fit and the large AC tube moved so it will fit the blower motor hole in the firewall (no pics of that). I will need to make a new cover. A while back I grabbed the condenser and tried to fit...

The stop bolts are only on the aftermarket shifters. Factory shifters did not have them.

I have always found that 90w is too thick. We run 80-90 in my son's 18-spline. It has some wear on second that if the shifter is adjusted "properly" it pops out of gear. One turn longer on every rod keeps it in every gear.

Looks like '68-69 factory big block K-member. As for value, they have had no consistency over the years as far as value goes. The market is relatively small.

Post pics. I am less an expert on the '67-69 K-members than I am on Direct Connection K-members, but without pics we're just guessing.

The house behind us (only about 20' away) caught fire in June from electrical wiring to the HVAC. The house had a steel roof installed over the original wood shingles. The steel caused issues for the fire fighters as they were not familiar with it or how to peel it off.