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Yes, convex face toward the rubber bushing.

Did my driver license test in Dad's '69 Delta Royale same color as this off the net........... A couple years later the cycle license test on my brothers '74 Honda 360T like this from the net........

Many of the adjuster nuts had slots in them that are collapsed onto the rod flat forming a light lock as it's pressed into the D taper of the washer. Similar to a "flex" nut. Many just use a second nut as a jam nut.

.............. https://www.holley.com/products/deals/clearance_parts/parts/RM-531

Ya' might check some videos by Back 9 on youtube. A couple of several below. The second one is pretty important (IMO) for those new to the sixpack setup.

An old manifold boxed up for a long while now in extended hibernation................. But Springs a'coming............ Not DC but one day this was dropped on the doorstep.............

There may be a limited market for these ........

This^^ :thumbsup: You might also consider some temporary shims/spacers prior to that.

At a certain point of pedal upward travel the OC spring should be pulling the pedal up to the stop ABRUPTLY. Is this the case when you meet that point pulling it with your toe?

Your picture may not be good enough to show the OC spring. Anyway, I believe it works such as this....... The over center spring is what returns the pedal to the stock up stop once the pedal is past the over center position. It also assists your leg when pushing the pedal to the floor with a B&B...

That's exactly why I haven't attempted to pop the dent out of mine, and it's more accessible than the OP's.

New or used? Summit has some FWD/REV patterns on sale (last day today) @GTX JOHN may still have 10% discount codes available.

I used the Eastwood on my front clip parts. I feel it does what they say it does, then too, I'm not one that's into body work or how it compares to disc sanding/stripping. It makes quite a mess.......all over, and on you as it throws most straight back. Some sort of vac attachment could help...

Is the socket contact plate twisting in the socket when you twist the bulb in and shorting between both?

My '85 more door was OK transportation............ Definitely not indestructible though............

FWIW, from my '69..........

:thumbsup::thumbsup:Nice job! You have me wanting to tear my IP out now! Did you use any special primer?

Didn't it come with this............... https://www.mopar1.us/electronic.html

Maybe this helps. Passenger side. Cam is inside looking outward................

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Conversation pieces these days. :) Here's another........

Go for it!:thumbsup:

Hmm, Rock shows same replacements. Maybe steering box location difference?

FWIW, you may encounter an issue with a hard right turn. Not too long ago another member had to modify theirs..........

The SB guys will be better to answer this. There may be some spacing differences.

If you're installing headers, for ease of installation, you'll want the powertrain as close to the stock location as possible. Unfortunately, it's really hard to tell what's afoul with your single picture. Maybe you could post some pictures of your engine and trans mounts. Someone may see...

You could put her up on stands and check your clearances fairly easy. I think you need at minimum 1/2" - 3/4" clearance from inner wheel well, leaf springs, outer wheel well and the expected tire bulge. Check both sides not just one. A straight edge off the brake drum and a tape to measure.

Maybe check your engine location if you haven't as yet.......... https://ttiexhaust.com/Footnotes/FN_39.htm

Same??? https://www.megapartsusa.com/proddetail.php?prod=205-MN3105

FWIW, my '69 FB does not have front TB's. BH29H9B XXXXXX