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You can take a flat chisel, grind the nose so that its round, and GENTLY work the metal of the block to tighten the registers. You really should have it line honed afterwards

No thanks

That whole "early" 360 blocks are thicker is mostly a old wives tale started by direct connection back in the day. I have tested a bunch, they ALL vary in thickness regardless of year.

And remember magnum heads DO run just fine with cracks, until the crack makes it's way across the valve seat. Then you have valve sealing issues eventually.

Love that green! Looks great

I have seen some sketchy ballance jobs, but that is probably the scariest one I have seen in a while!

Those 70 scoops look terrible on a 68 dart anyway in my opinion, turning them around backwards is just gonna look exponentially worse.

Your exaggerating what I said. I said the tbi systems have the same shortcomings as a carburetor. What I mean by that, is wet flow. Not concerned about dirty hands and all the other gibberish. And a novice will spend a BUNCH more time learning to tune with those systems.

A throttle body style EFI has the same shortcomings of a carburetor. If your going EFI, the best route is multi port.

48° and no cam cores left in existence for these blocks. $1500 billet core required

More pictures

And as strange and sacrilegious as it sounds, I would possibly trade for a 84-86 fox body mustang. I have this weird desire to put a SBM in one of those.

Havnt used any of those heads in a while, last few sets were just stock replacement deals for stock magnum rebuilds, so no experience with intake fitment with the carbureted intakes.

Yeah, that sucks! Makes it a total cluster f$#k

I imagine they are CNC machined, so all they need to do is fix the coordinates in the bolt pattern drilling step.

I didn't know you could even get those with the LA pattern. All the newer china EQs I have worked on were magnum pattern.

The bolt holes are drilled in the wrong spot, period

Them things sure look like the dark colored china castings

Intake bolt holes look to be drilled in the wrong location

72 Duster drag car. Super solid, rust free car. Recent amateur paint job, roll cage, subframes tied, tubbed, (will fit 31" tires with room to spare) dana 60 with 4:56 gear on a spool, ladder bar rear suspension, dual batteries in trunk, fuel cell, new wheels, 28" rear slicks in usable condition...

There are some serious issues that stand out in this build. I mean, the article says its using a flat top, 2 valve relief icon piston, sticking out of the bore .065! With a 60 cc chamber, and a .086 gasket for a quench distance of .021. That's gonna be quite a bit of compression, and it probably...

I'll just repeat what has been said, and I ballance these things personally all the time. The factory ballance job is not very good, and replacement pistons will NEVER be equal to what you remove weight wise. Not to mention if you weigh 8 factory rods, you will find it takes a bunch of grinding...

Nope!

I'm behind like everyone, but if you want to hit the easy button, I have a complete, fresh, dyno time only race 408 I built for myself last year, I'd sell it if your interested. Just send a PM

Thanks!

Magnum and LA use a different oil filter plate.

Built a budget stock type 360 magnum rebuild a few years ago, but with a carb and air gap intake. Used that old "RT" cam, and the engine ran, and sounded dead stock. I thought it sucked personally, much better choices. I used it cause it sat on my shelf for probably 20 years.

Here is a old school TRW forged piston, pin, and factory 340 rod compared to a icon forged piston, pin, and scat rod. This difference is staggering

There is nothing "odd" or "weird" about it. It's a 72 casting 340, would have came in a 73 model, or warranty block. And yes, that's a 318 steel crank. You got a nice score for sure

Run the full groove, in my opinion.