Naaaa, dont mess with the exhaust seats, just cut in the bigger diameter intake seat, it will interlock, but just retouch the seat when your done. Easy peasy. I like to tig weld around the seat insert, they just fall out when they cool.
Well, after cleaning the block, we decided to run a hone through the bores real quick to see if it will clean up with a additional .010...(at .030 over currently) . I am not sure you can see in the close up picture, but all the bores are heavily pitted, I dont have much confidence in ending up...
Its really up to the owner to disclose that if he chooses. There IS a possibility that the seller was screwed over by the machine shop that did the work, and perhaps truly believed the engine to be as described. I really dont know.
Good advice for sure, although no breakin procedure would have made any difference on this poor thing. Garbage machine work, poor assembly, and leaving out galley plugs resulting in circulation of unfiltered oil, it never even stood a chance.
From my experience, it seems more like it's the cap rather than the block. The blunt nose chisel works, but most of the time I find I can stick a different cap on the block and its tight. That would require caps that fit close to correct on the main bore, and then a line hone job however
Next step is to thoroughly clean the block, and take some more measurements. The bottom end is absolutely hammered, it may need a line hone, and I'm pretty concerned with lifter bore wear, but we will wait and see
Dont expect any miracles in the cylinder heads either. Worn old original valves, guides have been replaced sometime in its life with a plain iron repair guide, and they are worn out. Valve job looks poor on exhaust especially