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The degreeing the cam thing is important. I mention it not to beat you up, but because a good number of guys don’t and the problem is exactly what you are facing. Put it together and something is off. You can only guess at this point. If it’s off, you’re pulling the front of the motor off. I...

I have never understood this. You described my car almost exactly except it is on a 6” tire. Engine makes a ton of torque? Don’t push so hard on the “go” pedal. If you are driving it in the rain all the time Ok. A “fun” car? Build it for all the power you can afford comfortably.

Thanks! I have always respected his posts. Shame knowledge is chased off.

In reality, for me I’m forced into the same “small envelope” but the upper end. I’m limited in gross valve lift, but if I can snap the valve open to a useable lift quicker…….bob’s your uncle! Roller is on my list.

Absolutely, any LA head has things that make it not a “throw them on and you’re done” but sure. Like stated above. You need to fit a spring that is correct for the cam. In a pretty narrow envelope. Certain characteristics of the LA make it, not hard, but you need to pay attention. My real...

What carb? Need to list as much info as you can. Every piece of info about the car, transmission, rear gear.

Yep, in CT. It’s like paint, hazardous waste when a liquid. Let it cure and it isn’t anymore. I think a high 10 is possible, pretty sure going to a roller cam might get me there. Solid flat tappet now.

You don’t want to grind on the hold downs. I think they are just anodized aluminum. Which means they are only surface hardened. Grind on the spacers if you have to. Centered left to right is not super critical. As long as the spring or pushrod doesn’t hit. If you do grind the spacer on a belt...

Sometimes a cleaned plug doesn’t come back to full performance. I run cheap autolites just so I can throw new plugs in Willy Nilly and not cry.

Glad you got it sorted out!

Hopefully it will be ready for MIR. Helps having the other car. Fit it to that so it should be just a pull the dash out and install this one. Connect the amp meter leads together and plug in the light switch, key, mount the gauges to the bottom. Do have to make a shelf for the ignition box.

A bit more progress on the dash. I’m at the point of the filler work on the frame and “pads” is almost finished. The lower pads are bonded/bolted to the frame. Now I onto the little detail finish of the cluster and working out a shelf for the ignition box etc behind the glove box door. A little...

I would be afraid of running that rocker ground as much as it is. So, at least the exhaust valves are longer? How much longer? The shim on the bottom looks significant. The rocker shaft needs to move. With valve train, changing one thing can have unexpected consequences and you can NEVER check...

and it is Australian. :):):):)

Is that 55-60 lbs of oil pressure hot and at idle? If so, that is pretty high, if so it seems like the pressure relief valve in the pump is stuck. Not a horrible issue, but it will find weak spots in a questionable filter or sender. You are not going to “hurt” it with high oil pressure at idle...

Like stated before, it’s the late style pump/radiator and I’ll bet the aluminum radiator is pretty thick. You are so invested in the late style, you should stay with it. However, to get that motor to work in the older style car you just change to the cast iron pump. (Still in stock at parts...

Boom!!

Screen shots from video. Totally dark out. I have a screen shot like some popped a nuke!!

Just got back from Norwalk, last Wednesday they couldn’t stack anyone in the Linder’ slot because of rain. We went down to Walmart. Ferocious rain, wind, and lightning. Sirens went off, the rain was so hard it had a slip stream off the red Tractor.

The 727 is pretty heavy compared to a 904 and a good bit of it is rotating weight. I picked up 2.5 tenths going from 727 to 904, I also changed from a steel shaft to aluminum and went low first gear set and bump the flash up about 300 rpm. Average is about a tenth for the tradition change 727 to...

I got about 1 1/2 tenths out of the typical 727 to 904 swap. It really picked up 2 1/2 but I went aluminum driveshaft, low first gear set and a small bump in flash rpm at the same time.

The bezel, lost the bezel in the mold process, it was a pretty butchered spare watch to begin with.

The bottom dash pads. The little one should have been a two piece mold.

The glove box door. Lost the BARRACUDA script but the fish is there. The script was actually separate piece and stayed in the mold.

Started working on the dash, should end up being 5 molds total. 1 three piece. 2 two piece(or should have been!) and 2 one piece.

A question, did they move the alternator when an A body was converted to RHD? Could that set up be from a RHD car?

The original poster said he might have a deal on w2’s. That’s why they entered the conversation. W2’s to run a fun low 12, high 11’s car? Like Scampin said, extra cost not needed to obtain the goal. Get the w2’s as an investment? Cast iron heads are dying. The pool of people looking for them...

Insert 340 block for the 360 and drop the compression down from 12.2 to pump gas friendly and in a well sorted car you are probably high 11’s. Go forged crank. Mine is a 78 360 block bored to .040. With Icon forged flat top pistons .010 in the hole. Scat h beam rods and Scat 4” cast crank. The...

No, reused the bolts and hold downs. The reason it failed is that generation rocker wasn’t bushed and is a steel rocker and they have had a very hard life. It started to gall and away it went. Might put studs in the shafts. It was still rocking turning it over with the starter, I think it...

There is some on the hood down side. I will definitely keep an eye on them. Already checked them once after installing new rockers and shafts. Took a press to get the rocker off.