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I believe removing the choke horn and smoothing the entry in that area will help contribute to improving the things I mentioned in my first post. I’m not saying the mods you did do not work and are duly noted to things I will try.

Just so you know, there are more things to consider than just cfm or increasing cfm when modifying any carburetor. Increasing flow efficiency. Reducing turbulence. Increasing signal strength. Reducing pressure drop over the top of carb. Just to name a few.

Drilling holes in the primary plates is an old trick to add to the idle circuit when you have a cam that idles at too high an rpm that the idle circuit can feed it. Air bleeds add air to emulsion tube which controls the fuel curve through your rpm range in a Holley, not sure about a TQ. You...

You got to be careful enlarging air bleeds as they are cast into the aluminum top. Then again you could hard solder them shut and redrill them, but that would be a pia. To dial in a carb, it should be done on the dyno anyway. Reading plugs is like reading a crystal ball. You would need a...

This is a K&N Holley stub stack. It’s not a velocity stack, but I have seen them put into velocity stacks. The problem is one would cover the air bleeds into the primary boosters. Air bleeds are above the venturies in a Holley.

Nothing a 6 inch holesaw and a bag of mortar can’t fix.

Cool TQ brothers, I’m in. I have about a dozen TQ’s , one competition series, a 71 340, several later 340’s, 3-4 9800 series sold through direct connection and others. This is my 9097 experimental carb that I milled the choke horn off of. Haven’t worked on it for a while, but next steps are...

Yes, do it now, you can’t go wrong. Installing a new or another pan with engine in the car is a pain in the ***, hood off, headers disconnected, maybe more, engine half out to find the reinstall leaks. Then frustration sets in.

I would call Indy.

Not sure about rust repair, I’ll have to ask him about that. Come to think of it, all the others I have seen have been rust buckets. The color is not oem. He showed me 3 oem colors and asked me which one I liked best, then it showed up at his house that color, I believe he made the right choice.

I just got to show this off. This is my neighbor’s International Scout he is restoring/refurbishing and she is a beauty. He recently got it back from paint.

Aluminum rocker arms, they snap occasionally. I’d call Harlan sharp and ask them the service life of the rocker arms for your combination. But before you do, check your springs,pushrods and valves. I’d pull a head and thoughly check everything.

Y’all liking my post but I’m close to tears.

Passed on a 72 tripple black numbers matching 340 automatic Demon totally optioned out, appearance package, buckets, console, rallye dash, etc in a neighboring state. It was a rusted pos and way overpriced, but still. And another one that haunts me, 68 big block automatic GTS, numbers matching...

Not surprised if it goes down the toilet. Without Big Chief they got nothing. Chiefs YouTube channel is got massive hits and subs.

Not well versed in this subject other than Rick Eherenburg suggested this swap. On one of my junkyard crawls I dove under a bunch of grand Cherokee’s. The pinion gear shaft looks small and weak. Not sure if they were the right axles though. Probably stand up to a /6 or a stock 2 barrel v8...

Unfortunate as that is, it saves time, money and aggravation even if you have to travel to find one. Lucky for me, my local builder does it all. 1929 Cord, 302 GMC all the way to race engines for local short track and drag racers.

Take your dyno numbers back to your engine builder and ask him why. I don’t understand why folks have an engine built by someone that doesn’t use a dyno to tune it and verify power levels.

Can you take a picture or 2 of them please? I’ve bought car like that out of the junkyard, I got a good idea what I see in that car. I’ve had worse like front frame rails rusted in two. Also, have the console?

Disc brakes?

With your compression ratio, 160-170 is about right.

Was second pull with a holley? Tell him you want your avs and to tune it. If that does not suit your horsepower goals, get a thermo quad and have him tune it on the dyno.

He should have jetted and re rodded your avs. A smaller carb is just going to hurt more. Avs has 554 cfm and on a dual plane each cylinder only sees 277 cfm. Your cam definitely needs to be degreed in with a degree wheel. That is your first step. Second step is to check distributor advance...

With any stock head and not just mopars, air flow and cylinder filling is less than optimal. That is why you want to squeeze what you do have as much as possible.

I miss calculated, I have edited my post. Keep in mind that these are simple calculators and do not take into consideration of all variables.

I used online calculators

Ok, I re read your post, missed it the first time. Straight edge is acceptable, I would have used a feeler gauge with it. I was a tool and die maker during my working years, so measure,measure,measure. See my above post on compress. I know you are frustrated, its a long road but your going to...

I figured your static compression ratio at 9.77:1 with the information you provided. I also figured your dynamic CR to be 8.14:1 with your cam specs.

You forgot to add in the area for the valve relief eyebrows. Did you check piston to deck height with a depth micrometer? And on the subject of cylinder pressure, did you have a 5 angle valve job done and have the valves lapped in? I know I’m throwing a lot of **** at you, but I want to see...

With that much compression I believe your compression test should be around 180-190 psi.