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i flow tested one of those heads actually flowed very decent,

I assume they do, friend ofmine had one built while back, the long clutch is a better style the finger ratio is better ,

just looked at mcloeds site, they offer B&B/long clutch, and the long clutch. long has c/w finger and is1650 base, B&B/long is 1800 # base. use a regular disc, we referred to those as a rag disc,

just a thought, use a long style clutch, with a composite disc, about 1600 # base, they have c/w fingers, ram and mcloed have those, have to drill flywheel though, also, i always used a aluminum flywheel, can launch at higher rpm, the long is an excellent clutch setup,

been runing a stick car forever, won many races, is more consistent, used a hurst super shifter 3 , mcloed B&B /long clutch with a series 300 disc, base pressure was 1400 to 1600 lbs , also could add c/w to fingers. now i run a softloc, clutch, my trans was slick shifted , now its a jerico...

was block done with a deck plate before? if not, it will pull bores out of round by about 4 to 5 thousand. i've always bored and honed after grouting block. then its straight and true. just food for thought.

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i have tried to hone the bearings, they don't hone very well, too hard, i used my sunnen rod hone machine, also can't hold them either. when i did a few, only removed .0004 didn't register with a micrometer.

usually new pinions are painted black, sand it off on both sufaces with 220 grit sand paper, the front bearing should slid on, i use a spray lube for it. after sanding surface, bearing should fit easier. thats way, i've done all my pinion bearings.

I'm looking for caps for a small bolt wheel, keystones

ok, here , at .050 is 202 int and 208 exh. advertised is 248 /248, lift it .414 int and 425 exh. just food for thought.

i have a few sets of sealed power pistons for a 340, 2369P has same hole in the middle.

it was for machining in a lathe. the plug sits way lower on piston. just food for thought

sealed power and trw had that center hole in the top, OEM did not, just food for thought

install a slip yoke in the trans, then use a crescent wrench to shift the trans gears, as you turn the yoke. once it turns you have found neutral. adjust rods to fit on the trans forks. its very simple adjustment.once done the yoke will turn, thats how i have done mine every time

on stainless bolts, always use Anti seize they will gaul when you try to loosen them. only way to remove , is to use arc welder rod and blow them off. on all my exhaust systems, i use anti seize on all the bolts. also i use it on bolts going into water jackets. when i was a pipefitter, i...

i have sleeved many blocks, the fit should be, .0005 max interference fit. this will not distort the other bores, also, it will be a snug fit, i know sleeving all bores is expensive . last time i checked it was close to $ 1000, bill. just food for thought.

i found that torquing heads to 95 #, distorts the deck on block, also bell mouths the top of the bores, i use stock head bolts, and torque to 85 #, same as 318, never had a gasket problem. also, i use moly lube on bolts, i also start at 45 # and torque every 10 #,till i get to 85 #. ARP wants...

question, what rockers did you have ?

1.6 rockers will not clear in LA engines, i machined about .100 on pair of heads for another shop. no info from the manufactures , these require clearance to fit, same with older chev heads, just food for thought.

to weld casting to steel you use 316 sst rod, 3/32 works the best. sst will weld to cast and steel, do not use 7018 or 6011, just food for thought. I was pipe fitter before, also, no need to preheat ,weld at room temperature

the 273 doesn't need 1350 joints, the 7290 is more than adequate. you would have to buy after market trans yoke and yoke for rear end. just food for thought.

on my dart and duster, i removed the rubber spacer and installed a rocker ball from 350 chev also i use a second nut to lock the clutch rod nut, makes it easier to adjust, just food for thought

I found a moroso or milidon scraper for a small block chev fits small block mopar. bore spacing is same. have to trim it some to fit and drill mopar pan bolt pattern in it, also i cut the pan gasket to bunt up to it. then ran a silicone bead full length of block and pan, to seal it. just food...

BTW, bore spacing is the same .

i have installed a chev small block scrapper in my 273/340, engines. have to trim it some around crank, and drill bolt holes to fit mopar block. also cut pan gasket to butt against scrapper at both ends, then spread a silicone bead full length of block to seal it it. just food for thought

it runs SS/k now, matt steins 66 valiant runs that class, 235/273, combo, its very completive , seen a video where he ran 10.05 @ 131.78 mph. just food for thought.

FYI, matt steins 273 runs 10.05 @ 131.78, with stock volume ports and stock size valves, stock carburetor, also its a light car. true its a good piece. also , theres a 65 b'cuda in stock, runs 12.20, and a 65 valiant in stock, runs low 12 sec passes. just food for thought.

pipe threads require a sealant, period, teflon tape, pipe dope, # 2 permatec, , without it, it will leak,,

I just built a 273, i installed J E pistons, dome hgt is .275, piston flat sits .046 below thedeck. 360 head, @ 66 cc, felpro 8553 gasket, C R is 9.28. i've never had to retorque my head gaskets on my 340 or 273, i use moly lube on bolts, 340 is at 80#, 273 is at 85 #. just food for thought