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If one truly does the EOIC method while turning the engine in the opposite direction, you’re adjusting the lash/preload during the overlap period. You’re at the opposite end of the lift cycle for each valve from where you want to be

You’d like to have a timing light on hand before reclocking the dist drive gear. Check the timing before you move anything, then just put the timing back to where it was after you’ve moved the housing.

The only affordable ones I’ve seen are the 812D, for Chevy hydraulic applications.

Interesting ……….. but the OD of a stock guide boss on a stock BBM head is a nominal .625”. With the guides remachined for upgraded seals, there are seals with an OD of less than .625”, so they’d actually have more room than a stock guide boss and no seal. You’d rather not mess with it……...

If the guides haven’t been cut for smaller seals, thats probably why there were o-rings on the heads. The two common sizes the guides get machined to for good seals are .500” and .530”.

I’m just relaying what was stated in the video. I realize it makes more sense that they’d be 240’s, but that’s not what was said. Plus, I believe it’s cnc’d into the exhaust side of the heads. As below-

Def degree the cam. Stock heads that have unmolested valve guide bosses will need to have them cut for smaller diameter seals, along with having them shortened for adequate retainer to seal clearance. A correct spring for the 590 cam will be a dual spring of some kind, which means the spring...

Personally, I’m not a fan of the Eagle SIR rods. I’ve had good luck with the Scat I beams though.

Yeh, but he seems to enjoy the science experiment stuff.

My experience has been that fast rate Hyd cams in combination with lifters that are on the high end of bleed down rate are noisier than many of their SFT counterparts. And I find the noise they do make not very satisfying. However, if the OP has a real “clacker”(or more than one), it’s likely...

The point? It’s all about the clicks!!! My take on the first combo is- A “science experiment” with no practical application. But to each their own. The second combo is just a harder way to get to whatever power number they make……. With no real up-side. But again, to each their own. Both are...

Which cam came in the HP318 that was used with the 360 heads and TQ in police cars…….mid 80’s?

At the end they say it’s a 493 with TF270’s, I don’t recall if there was any cam info. When you have the electronics delaying the distributor pick up trigger to manipulate the timing, it can put rotor to terminal phasing off pretty far.

“If we drag it out long enough, maybe no one will remember the original premise for the build”

There’s def a lot to absorb from that video. One thing I found kinda funny was how no one understood what was going on with the instructions for locking out an MSD distributor, and the whole “rotate it 180*” thing. I’m not an EFI guy…….my personal experience is limited to one unit(which works...

Those are my thoughts as well. If the engine has sat for an extended period of time…….. my vote is for stuck valves. In any case……..it’s likely stuck “something”.

Things have been a bit slow on the BB forum, so I thought this might generate a few comments……

My “fwiw”…….. “If it were me” I’d use either the XE256 or XE262…….in that vehicle.

Or a Mod could come in and clean it up.

Here’s an early prediction……. If the testing goes reasonably smoothly, it should be possible to have/claim a “winner”. However, I feel the testing will be condensed enough to where there will still be many unanswered questions at the conclusion.

Are you asking if the cam is boxed wrong(part number on cam and box don’t agree), or the part number is not what you ordered? Or the measured specs are not correct for the number on the cam? I don’t recall having any of those scenarios play out. Edit- I take that back…….. I had a SBC roller...

I say this as someone who has never put a set of TF190’s on anything myself, and/or dyno tested an engine that had them. But, I feel like the best use of TF SBM heads is an application that can use them as they come right ootb. The cost effectiveness goes down quickly if you’re paying someone...

I’ve had a few heads where unshrouding the intake valve created some high lift flow problems. For me, it seems like if the high lift flow stability is iffy, moving the chamber wall away from the valve hasn’t shown to improve that.

Timing marks will be in different places depending on the model year/timing covers, but by ‘72 I think they’re the same as all the later model stuff.

Any changes to the flow curve by opening up that chamber? Exhaust flow improvements with the clean up?

I’d be borrowing/renting a different compression test(screw in style) to verify the cranking pressure numbers. If they’re really in the “60psi in 4 pumps” range, the cam timing is likely off a tooth or more. That being said, I’d do a leak down test before I pulled anything apart.

Seems like nowadays when it comes to SBM FT cams…….. there’s what you’d like…….. and what you can actually get. Which are often not one in the same.

How many “pumps” on the compression gauge to read 60psi? If it’s like 4, and the gauge is accurate…….. I’d be thinking the timing chain jumped…….especially if they’re all about the same.

Were you planning on checking the torque to turn the rotating assy? What’s the ring pack on the pistons?

2.02/1.60 valves aren’t really all that close together……..