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Exactly, and "I" in AI is a misnomer. There is no actual intelligence, rather pattern recognition and regurgitation.

Anyone have a summit code they aren't using? Looking to buy some trunk extensions before China locks down

for $30 bucks I'm down, just need to get someone to do it. :)

Not sure what a proprietary method might be but it's my understanding there are basically three ways to remove PC. 1. Chemical (acetone, MEK etc) 2. Mechanical (abrasive media) 3. Heat (It's baked on, it can be baked off). Where I worked as a teenager they had an oven to clean blocks, heads...

That might account for it, but still, I've seen a lot of people suggest the same thing on the interwebs. I'm wondering if it's a high temp which might just be tougher in general.

Tried to use some acetone last and it only dulled the finish. Not saying it doesn't work but my initial test weren't promising. Yeah, she's missed around here for sure.

yeah those .049 are tiny. The larger 1/4 scale props are more problematic. You want those balanced pretty good.

Huh, seems easy enough. I always had it in my head PC is tougher than that but then again acetone will destroy a lot of plastic/paint types. Thanks!

I recently got an Edelbrock Magnum airgap on a trade and want to remove the really fancy blue/purple sparkly powdercoat without destroying it. Is there a decent home shop way to do it or am I better off just bringing it to a pro and having it "dipped"?

A good way would be like how a model airplane propellor is balanced. Similar to using a nail, but the "nail" is supported by something that keeps it dead center on in the hole. The "nail" is set on two level parallel surfaces. Balance until the blade stops trying go vertical. If you google...

I have a 69 Dart vert on which a previous owner ... 1. "Converted" the headlights to rectangle 2. Put grip tape on every flat surface on the interior to add "texture". 3. Converted the trunk to gas assist but drilling holes into the deck lid under structure and through the drip channel. The...

That joint is not as rock solid as some might want to think. Grade 8 are indeed stronger but Grade 5 will take more of a beating because the will "move" where a grade 8 won't will resist that, and will crack before g5 in that regard. Now if you're bolting a 1 inch plate to another some other...

That's fantastic, you sound like you've lived an amazing life, well done to you. Closest I got to anything like that was occasional trips to Johns shop (He owned a company that rebuilt WIWII engines. ) for my boss a the time and was fortunate enough to be present when the bran new nose was...

All good info so thanks. The general thing I was missing was forgetting about the AMC 360 so when I saw a wagoneer in the local wrecking yard inventory and it had a 5.9 it got me thinking. Wrong version though so it's a non-starter. I'm glad I asked here before wasting my time. Way more...

Yeah I hadn't even thought of the AMC version. Thanks for clarifying.

AM... :rofl:

That makes sense I hadn't considered the AMC 360 and would certainly explain OMM's answer.

Thanks @TT5.9mag , just to pound this into the dirt, that includes the pre-mag LA?

Would you mind stating the diffs? I don't want to end up with a block I can't use.

I thought as much but I'm always willing be told I'm wrong so if @Oldmanmopar has additional info I'd like to hear that too.

In my low priority search for an 88-92 roller pre-mag 360 it occurred to me I might be able to pull one from a jeep of the appropriate year. I know external things are different (starter, manifolds, accessory locations etc) but are the blocks the same?

Double checked against my k-fame and mounting holes are indeed, around 32.2 side to side, and just over 12 front to back

Ah, makes sense then. Thanks for clarifying.

I didn't say the illustration was wrong, I said it "appears" to not align with the bolt holes like every other illustration I've seen. So it's possible the FSM is referencing something other than the bolt holes. EDIT: Removed my unwarranted sarcasm. Been a day so I apologize. In all...

better pic than what I looked it. I had thought it was 31.92, good catch. EDIT: I checked again to see where I messed up but the drawing for a 67 actually says the center to center for the k frame mounting holes is slightly over 32 at 32-1/8 wide. 67 through 76 should all be the same mounting...

Ever swap notes with John Sandberg, builder of Tsnunami?

Ok, I was was assuming you were talking about things other than 273 but that's fair. Hadn't considered the borgeson, that's good to know. As said, basically where there is will, there is a way.

I have a 400 block that was painted bright green I was going to build a stroker out of.

Just under 32" wide it looks like for an A body which seems about right

body/frame dimensions