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looks like a solid option. In my case, looking for the easiest solution by pulling the carpet, slapping something down and hit the road.

Noted. Just looking for heat block. Instead of using butyl mats along with the items you listed, could I just use the double sided sheets in the link you provided?

Looking for opinions regarding HushMat's effectiveness keeping engine bay heat out of the cabin. Is the heat reduction considerably noticeable to be worth the time and effort? If so, would just the firewall kit (HUT-661642) be sufficient or should I go the entire floor kit route (HUT-661641)?

Good point....

Noted. Will a 66 idler arm work with a 67 k member? I have a 67 idler arm but it rests on the torsion bar a bit. The 66 idler arm looks to have a bit more clearance.

What is the difference between the idler arm bolt hole on a 66 vs 67 Barracuda k-member? I was told by someone on this forum that my k-member is a 67 but a local mechanic told me one of his supplies believes its a 66.

Versa Shield™ Starter Shield Checking all connections to make sure I didn't knock something loose. My hunch is no but stranger things have happened.

Currently waiting for the engine to cool then removing. Was seeing if this is a known issue in the meantime.

Installed a DEI heat shield on the starter motor. After install, cranked it over and wouldn't fire. Strong crank but no fire. Second crank, fired up but stumbled a bit. Waited to get to temp, put it in drive and it completely died on me before even making it out of the driveway. Could the heat...

Pulled the cover, installed the baffle and installed the PCV. Had a bit of blow by at first when at temp then went away.

Will be replacing the valve cover gaskets as well. What are the thoughts on rubber vs cork gaskets? I was looking at the Moroso 93050, which has great reviews.

May just pull the cover and add a baffle then if that's the correct way of going about it. Figured moving the filler cap to back hole without a baffle using a push in and moving the PCV to the front hole with a baffle would suffice. Any specific baffle kit I should look at?

Regular PCV Summit part 440308. Was looking at the following grommets, which may work. Scott Drake C7AZ-6892 or Dorman 42324. What's the reason for the baffle if the push in oil filler cap is sealed/non-breathable?

I was going to use the hole in the front closer to the carb base plate, which is baffled. However, the grommet that came with the PCV wont seal all the way. The cut outs for the twist in hole would still be exposed. I was thinking finding a grommet that would seal the cut outs (1/8-1/4" larger)...

Have to pivot here and install the PCV on the twist in side of the valve cover, which is baffled. Removed the rear breather to find that it is not baffled so will need to find a push in style oil filler cap. This is a smaller diameter than the twist in side so need to find a push in filler cap...

A little bit more of elbow grease did the trick.

Three holes and baffles. I think part of the issue is the rubber washer was not used between the cover and breather since we could not get it to seat deep enough to screw on with the rubber washer being used. Didn't want to have to resort to pulling the cover but that may be the only option.

Getting around to doing this today. Breather on valve cover is completely stuck, won't turn at all for whatever reason. Tried everything from using an oil filter wrench, a couple love taps from a hammer to try to loosen it, etc. Should I just knock the damn thing off with a hammer at this point...

Found the issue. The safety neutral switch had a loose wire within the connector that connected to the relay. Another concern that I have noticed however before this issue presented itself: On cold start, the engine fires right up with a strong crank. At temp and when it has been sitting for...

What type of hose is needed?

Would you happen to have that Moroso part number? Is it just the universal 85474?

Just looking for something that is plug and play and good quality. Will adjust carb a bit if needed.

Are there any better PCV valves over others?

Won't crank from key ignition. Cranks and starts by shorting relay.

Yes, spark and fuel. Curious if something is going on with ignition switch itself.

No crank. Auto trans and checked in both park and neutral. Ground strap, battery cables and bulkhead connectors good.

Need to chase a no start issue. Intermittent on cold start and always present after running and trying to restart. All accessories have power along with MSD ignition. Bridging the battery and starter cable on the relay starts the engine ever time when the issue is present. What should I be...

How about this set up? breather on passenger side cover, filler cap on front driver side cover, PCV valve on rear driver side cover connected to carb. Forgive my ignorance here since this is all a new learning experience for me but do I have to adjust the carb in anyway if I connect the PCV...

I noticed today that the passenger side valve cover breather is smoking after a good drive. I did add a baffled breather to the second vent next to the master cylinder on driver side. Three breathers in total. Is this too much? What other info is needed to narrow down a solution?

What are the tell tale differences between a car and truck pan? Will double check to see what I have.