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Thank you for the info!!

I got the battery mostly charged at 12.6v and it held there for 3days sitting out of the car. I bought a new 12v test light, and I switched my test leads on my meter to the correct position. My battery has two top posts and two side posts. I started out with the alternator wire hooked up to...

I just checked my multimeter and the answer is NO I DIDNT!!! I’m a dumb a!!. I will redo the test again this weekend. Thanks

Thanks everyone. I do have an older meter and I’ll have to check the fuses. But I’ll use my test lamp on the next try. No radio or trunk light and I’ll have to check that glove box light. My interior lights were set to off. I should be able to test the battery this weekend. Thanks again!

70 Challenger: I started up the car on a Thursday night to work on the choke and idle settings for about 15 minutes or so. Shut it off and put the key away. Saturday morning, I open up the door to see no interior lights. I try the headlights and nothing. Grab my meter and it showed 1.8 v. The...

I did the same as 65. Bought the sheet kit and used the originals as templates on thinner material.

Hooker Max Flows under the rear seats and Classic Chambered Exhaust resonators beside the tank in my 70 Challenger.

I do not have the actual part number since as I have had these on this engine for many years. I was told that these were one of the original sets with the grey high temperature boots. FC also sold me a coil wire at the length that I needed when I moved my coil off the engine and over under the...

Firecore 50's

I need to update this thread. Non-Airgap RPM (gasket matched) or Weiand X-celerator (small single plane, gasket matched) I installed the X-celerator on the engine stand and then put the engine in the car. I was ready for startup/break-in and then found a Trick Flow Track Heat in stock (at that...

340/420

Thanks guys. It is just a street toy, so thinking out loud.

This Fall, I finished my 340/420 rebuild and got it tuned up and ready to leave the garage. But the Winter temps hit too quick, and the first drive will have to wait until Spring. So, I am wondering if over the Winter if swapping out my existing TTi 2-1/2" header reducers & x-pipe combo out for...

My shift rpms should be around 5800 to start. My current converter is a 9.5 that was setup at 3800 when it was a 340, so I am guessing it will raise a few hundred now being a 420. I will choke down the VA for now and I do have a vacuum gauge in the car. Thanks!

I opened up my distributor last night to replace the springs and found a broken rotor tab, loose and rusted small spring, and a crack in the outer aluminum housing. I ordered another Mopar unit last night that has VA. This weekend I will start setting up the new unit. I am aiming for 22-24...

I will try and find my springs. Thanks!

I checked the curve tonight and I now have 32 total at 2200, and 22 at idle. Should I move the total up to 34? Thanks

No VA and 10.7 measured. This week, I will check the curve and see what rpm the timing is all in by and adjust to 32 for now. Then check to see where the initial ends up which I will assume will be less than 24. Cam is a 109 installed at 105. Thanks guys

It should be ready to tune so I am hoping to get some running time later this week. Thanks

I have been working on this build this year and a couple of weeks ago I broke in the SFT (252/256 109 CL) cam, then I installed the inner valve springs and ran it for another 15 minutes or so and now it has about 45-50 minutes of total run time. I just completed the cranking compression checks...

I’m using these with a SFT with .552” lifts at the valves and installed at 1.725” range.

I shut it off at 2300rpms, so I assumed it was caused by that. I didn’t want it to idle yet. Thanks! One more question: I’ve got the drivers side rockers off tonight and was inspecting the pushrods and found one that has a scrape all around the diameter. No marks along the length of the rod. It...

Tried to fire it up again and it lit, but I couldn’t get the rpms up to start the fun. After about 5 seconds or so, I shut it down and added more advance. Then, one pump and turned the key and it fired up again. It ran rough for the first 10 seconds or so as I kept trying to get the rpm’s up. A...

I have everything back together and recharging the battery. I will take off the hold down tonight and get rid of that notch. Thanks for the info!!

Ok, been in the garage. Balancer still at 20, #1 still coming up on comp, rotated the dist gear one and two teeth, back to one. The dist hold down is in the middle’ish of the adjustment and the rotor is facing forward/drivers side, and the rotor is on the #1 mark that I made for the cap.

4spd: The dist connector is bottomed out as I just checked it. I will try to relocate that spring at a lower point. Thanks

I understand. But before I do so, my dist does not have any more CCW tuning left before it hits the hold down bracket. Should I rotate the dist one tooth first? Or, since the balancer is on 20 now, just rotate the dist CW to lineup more with the rotor?

Coming up on TDC (piston towards the top and the balancer on the 20 degree mark) with thumb feeling pressure on #1, the picture of the rotor is about the same. Second picture shows #1 dist location.

U Bob: it is a solid flat tappet. I forgot to add that in my post. Turned the balancer to TDC and the #1 piston is at the top. This is where the dist is pointing. Thanks guys!

Tried to start up my 340/420 today and it won't fire. Cranks great (it spun freely for 3-4 seconds only), has fuel no start. I moved the distributor CCW about 1/4" or so, then when I turned the key, the engine tried to turn over, then stopped with in 1-2 seconds. Battery is fully charged and on...