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The motor plate is the block off plate, If you not using a motor plate use a block off plate

FYI when you put the intake bolts, head bolts back in they need lube from engine oil Put a little on the bolts before your re-install

Right there That is all I use and have only used.. Get your self a set of engine brushes , either from eastwood or Moroso

So you have seen it offered by Mopar? The pan is a race pan used on NHRA Super Stock cars , I just never seen one configured this way

I have looked around on the inter web and even in old direct connection catalogs I cannot find anything close to this? Anyone ever seen this before? It was in this oil pan which is pretty interesting , never seen a pan like this with all the trap doors in it. The Milodon I had was wide open and...

I was always told it was not easy or cheap to put 48 degree heads on a 59 degree block. you have to move push rod holes, change rockers and run offset lifters. Or am I mistaken?

This what the Sprint Car guys use- http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dcc-4510557?seid=srese1&gclid=CKTQpqLiiMoCFQotHwodgXwIdw These guys might help you find what you need http://www.stantonracingengines.com/Default.aspx

Thanks guys for the reply New wizard cool Radiator with fans 5" thick I should be good with Moroso electric water pump

Anybody happen to know the distance from the timing cover to radiator support on a 69 dart? I am trying get a radiator for my race car & engine is out of the car right now.

General Kinetics cams= C.=Chevrolet M= Mechanical H= Hydraulic 1= Small block 2= Big block 284= Advertised Intake duration with 1.5 rocker a-z letter suffix= modification of original design. More exh dur., changed centerline, changed exh pattern, etc. EXCEPT the "R" series of "Redline" cams...

I agree- that 305 in that is pretty lame

I know it is not rocket since.. I worked in shop part time back in 1980 knurling guides and installing bronze guides , I was also Ford & Chrysler tech for 10 years after working in local garage. I use to do everything. I have drag raced for years .. I had close friend that use to do my machine...

Your not being a smartass at all. Looking back , I am not sure... I guess I thought I was getting something I could not build myself. But never again. I have the machinist I use correcting the bores, boiling the block and installing the cam bearing and I am doing the rest. I totally agree with...

Thanks, I will have him check the pistons, he might have already done so. The crank was checked and it is straight, just needs micro polish from the water

The bores where too tight .003 and less clearance! Plus I have 2 bent rods from the engine hydro locking. What a lesson I learned... Never again will I have an engine done out of state The block has to be honed with a plate The pistons can be saved, I had to buy new Connecting rods and all...

Well the saga continues -torn the short block down. Piston to wall clearance was way to tight -all 8 pistons are scored.

I don't know $5500 is nice down payment on used Challenger 2009 R/T's are selling for 17K to 19K Just say'in

$5500 in the car ! That is a deal-just chuck the 318 Get a 360 block and Cast 408 stroker kit and some indy x heads you will be a lot happier

My last two race engines cost me over $9000 each I doing a GTO for a customer and his engine- redo heads with new valve springs, valve job , boil and surface $500 for the pair -short block= crank bearings, cam bearings, rebuild rods new ARP bolts, hone , line hone, straighten crank and polish...

I was upset at first that they failed.. but crap happens! What really upset me was why I had not been told that they had problem when the engine was being built all they had to say was we have problem with one head and had to epoxy it and not sure it it will hold what do want to do get a new...

I didn't think it got that hot..LOL I just thought it could stand those temps better than other epoxy I think it might work?

Not sure the wife would like me using the oven, but I could get away with the BBQ grill In order for Hi-Temp Lab-metal to completly harden after a 24 hour air dry time, it must be exposed to a minimum temperature of 425ºF for a period of at least one hour depending on thickness of application...

Anybody ever use this stuff? Hi-Temp Lab-metal SKU 11101 Permanent repair compound - withstands 1000ºF. Hi-Temp Lab-metal is ready-to-use right from the can. Developed for difficult repairs subject to excessive heat, Hi-Temp Lab-metal withstands temperatures as high as 1000ºF

Well I have another set of heads, ported X heads , rocker arms and push rods, that I picked up awhile ago. I am going to have my local guy check theses out and clean them up and use them on the engine. I still have to have the short block checked out. Just with all that water in the oil and the...

Agreed and why not say something? what do think that leak would have done if it filled the cylinder going down the track @ 120 mph and spinning it over @ 6800 rpms..

Well I was told by the shop , First why are we so upset over it! There is no valve seat there and that is sand hole common problem easy fix...

They where a brand new in box set of W2's

:angel12: For now

Thanks Guys .. I was pretty pissed off last night when I saw this.

See for yourself