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My preference would be to do a build on this motor. Already .060 is an issue. From reading numerous posts there are issues building a 273 including. Head gaskets would be a makeshift solution. I’m willing to have the work done but I don’t want to have $7500 in 273 that won’t run right when a...

First the car…..1965 Barracuda 09 30 65 build date Block casting 11 5 1965 Assembly stamp on block B273 11 19 It has the 1965 heads with the narrow bolt angle Does this make sense for an original block? Or is it a 1966 block due the B stamp and late casting and assembly date? The engine...

Well that’s all pretty clear. 3 on the tree. Sounds like the floor shift hump is an easy graft/weld and the factory pretty much used the same method. Thanks everyone.

I have a 1966 Barracuda with the fender tag showing it was originally a 3 speed car. It’s been converted to a 4 speed A833 with an aftermarket Indy shifter (right photo). My question is were there originally 3 speed floor shift cars, or were all 3 speeds column shift? The transmission tunnel...

FYI the 8 3/4 was first available in 1966 (at least in A bodies) and I’ve heard they’re hard to find. I believe the axles are narrower than any other 8 3/4. Moser Engineer makes a replacement for $4,500 (ouch) I think. The 7 1/4 axles won’t handle more than a built 273 engine. Which is fine...

Anyone know where I can get a wood grain wheel restored? I have 4 on cars and they are all worn. They still look OK but an original finish would be way cooler.

Since many times the dealers put on the stripes they would probably paint them “Any Colour You Like” LOL

There’s been a few 1966 EE1 cars that have come on the market the last year or two. The ones I’ve seen have all been the same color scheme - EE1 paint with the PB4 dark blue vinyl interior and white stripes.

This is a 1966 but with EE1 white stripes are the way to go. This car has kind of a budget restoration but it’s mostly original parts and pretty sure white stripes were originally on this car

So for about a month I've been driving the car without the sealer gasket around the shaker assembly. It’s made all the difference - sure and easy starts every time. Turns out improving the airflow around the engine was sufficient to stop the fuel boiling. So glad it was that easy. Thanks...

Any projects in mind for them?

Update - I’ve driven the car a number of times this past month. No apparent leaks from the gaskets. A sincere thanks to all FABO members that took the time providing advice

First im going to try Improving the under hood airflow. The shaker assembly has a large sealing gasket around the base plate. Easy to remove it’s already out, opening the surrounding underhood gap will let large amounts hot of air up, around the base plate and out. So simple mad I didn’t think...

“I would use Edelbrocks base gasket 12410. Open fro the Torker II intake. Summit Racing #EDL-12410 $38.95 A thick fiber gasket.” Makes sense to start here - I wanted to call Edelbrock yesterday or today but couldn’t get to it. I will next week, and report back once installed. Many thanks to all...

Hedman told me it’s a thin metal plate that surrounds the carb (like a pie tin?) and block heat transfer. I’d consider it as there’s pretty much space around the carb but going up with a spacer might be a problem due to the shaker.

I have a Koffel’s 417 striker in a 67 notchback. Fairly frequently the gas will boil or evaporate out and the car is very, very hard to start. It might start 20 times in a row super easy and then just won’t go. I been told a phenolic spacer between the carb and intake would be a solution to stop...

Put the covers back on over the weekend. RTV on the cover (followed the directions on the tube) and wheel bearing grease one the head side of the gasket. Had to trim the cork just a bit to fit. Sit for 2 days for the RTV to fully cure. Drove for an hour and….no leaks! We will see if it stands...

PS read a lot on how to get the finish to turn out….putting them in my wife’s oven???? Not gonna go there…. Waited for a 92 degree day here in Green Bay and put them in direct sun. Full sun, black paint on metal, surface temp had to be near the 200 degrees recommended. Worked like a charm.

Dana ur exactly right - read the RTV instructions spot on. Fate - I didn’t true up but I did notice how flat every side / line was on the table. They were in great shape. I was inclined to use silicone but a Mopar “expert” LOL at the shop advised me to use the cork….next time 4spd thanks - no...

Put new crinkle black finish on my covers and they turned out great! Now it’s time to put them back on and I’m hoping get it done with no leaks. I’m thinking: 1. Put a black RTV bead on the cover 2. Place the gasket (Fel-Pro Perfomance cork) on the cover 3. Place a black RTV bead on the head...

Just got back from out of town. Thanks guys I really appreciate all the info. Plenty here to make my choices. The biggest choice I see is whether to swap out the heads. 4bbl, cam, headers, ignition If I decide to swap the heads for 360s how much should I mill off?

Good idea PRH. I’ll get the tach and have a few dyno runs done soon. Once that’s sorted I’ll do a build over the winter along the lines of the Hot Rod article. I feel good about this strategy! Thanks all for the input.

Delta - thanks for all the links. I’ve read about half and will come back for the rest. 273 - I like the Hot Rod article. I think this will be my template due to the tested results, right around my goal. Chill - the thread to which I refer is the first one in Deltas links. One final...

Junkyard I think you nailed it.

Shoulda mentioned this is a 4 speed car. Just plain runs outta breath in my opinion. A tach would help me know, I’m gonna take out the performance indicator and put in a factory tach. But surely there’s a lot more top end and prolly pretty easy with the right bolts ons, starting with the heads...

Just got finished reading all 4 pages of The Mighty 318 thread about getting 590hp out of a 318. More BS in one place than I ever recall seeing but the smiles per mile were worth it. Also this kernel of truth: I recently became owner of a good running 318 in a very nice 66 Barracuda. This was...

The tag is rectangular, a bit longer that the one in your photo. The second punch hole is where the ratio is stamped but not big enough to obliterate it. I’ll have it on a lift next week and try to remember a tag pic to post here.

I tried to get a photo, was underneath the car (not on a lift). Too tricky and couldn’t get the right photo angle and light. I will have the car on a lift next week and will get a pic and post it.