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??? Not following, wrong thread? :lol:

Just so you are aware, the factory DS manifold for a '74 is only really different from the 340 you have in that it has the flanges for the heat stove like the 318 manifold. I had the same 340 manifold you have and swapped to the '74 style so I could get a spark plug boot heat shield. Doesn't...

I understand. FWIW, I wouldn't call moving a couple bolts around as "opening up" the bottom end. :)

Note that the above info is from the 6.2 section of the FSM. The 5.7 shows different specs and it seemed like you were working with a HC motor so I made sure to clip info from that section.

Here's what I found in the 2015-18 Charger FSM I have: Hopefully you can read that. Here is a clip of the torque specs. Note that while it does say new fasteners must be used for rods and oil pan bolts, it doesn't say that for the main cap bolts.

No argument. Nice thing is, I don't have any plans for these heads right now and whatever I might use them on probably doesn't need anything as "exotic" as this setup. So nothing I need to lose sleep over, at least for now.

FYI, they aren't torque to yield. The tightening procedure uses a torque to angle process, but that doesn't mean the bolts are torque to yield. This is talking about head bolts, but it's the same idea.

So my HF calipers say the valve tip is about 0.06" above the lock. I popped the cap off the neighboring valve (wasn't as stuck as I thought) and it measured 0.0495" in the cup. The one lash cap I looked at does look like it has been messed with, but then again I'm no expert so maybe that's how...

@PRH, have you ever seen or setup a Magnum head to run this type of retainer? Thoughts on why it might be setup like this?

Thanks! Maybe that's why 4 of them are missing? Because they weren't actually seating on the tip of the valve and were loose?

Here is FB Marketplace ad for the car the heads came off - For Sale My neighbor worked on the car for the owner so I saw it around once in awhile. I don't remember much about the car, other than I think the owner bought it and then had my neighbor make upgrades like gears or a Dana, shifter...

Absolutely they will get cleaned up and checked out before bolt them on anything. No real build going on, right now they are just extra parts in case I need them. I have a 5.9 in my Dakota with a set of factory heads and I got that up and running not too longer before the guy approached me...

I tried to pop one out using a magnet and they seemed pretty tight. The heads have been standing on their ends for more than a year now so they could have fallen off, but I would like to think I would have noticed them. And the other head isn't missing any. Ah well, just have to find...

How much does the valve length play into the geometry with the Chevy rockers? Would the keepers with the lash caps and (maybe?) the taller overall valve height make things better? Wondering if whomever assembled the heads used the funky valve spring keepers and lash caps to adjust some of that.

So I should probably just pull them off the heads and sell them to a Chevy guy instead of running them.

Oh, and the valve covers appear to have been pretty heavily reworked. Best I can tell, someone machined or ground off the ribs, I just thought there was an option for ones without the ribs. The welded up hole was due to how the casting would have had an opening after removing the ribs and boss...

I swear I did some research on this before asking. Well, on the rockers anyways. The rocker studs were a revelation to me so I didn't look into them before asking here. I am pretty well convinced the rockers are just generic SBC rockers. Found plenty that look similar from places like Jegs...

Also got the MP valve covers later on. They thought they were cracking, but I think it is casting flash. And they have been welded on the corners and to remove one of the holes. Anyone know if those are supposed to have baffles?

And the ARP head bolts are missing one of the longer bolts and three washers. At least those can be bought singly, I think?

Awhile back I was able to pick up a pair of EQ CH318A heads that I believe to be the "good" ones. I knew they were a set of the earlier ones from seeing them on the car, but bought them unseen other than that. So when they showed up with a set of roller rockers and ARP head bolts, I was...

Here is what Boosted Motorsports did to gain ground clearance for his Viper install. The oil pump hangs pretty low, so can't really go any further without some kind of a custom oil pump setup. Nice thing is, it's a rear sump pan so there is some possibility of clearing a k-frame. I say a...

Here are some A-Bodies from this site: 68 Dart GTE Project And then this one: Twin Turbo 1971 Scamp Project Unfortunately, the pictures in the above thread don't load in the thread. But you can right click and open them in a new tab and see them. Here is the same car on FB - Scrapyard...

Vorshlag is putting a J37 in a FRS. Not a swap I would have thought about for something like an A-Body, but kind of intriguing the more I learn about them. Good thing I don't have unlimited funds and time. :D

J series?

I understand. And you are exactly right that it has to please you and nobody else. If it even fit under the hood! :lol: Those motors are stupid tall from the factory. Guy fit one in a Viper, so they can be shaved down, but still. Far as I know, no one has fit one to an A-Body. I went...

Not knocking the idea of a 2JZ, but if you really wanted to be different you could keep it all Mopar and put a Hurricane inline 6 in the car. Way more fab work, but stock they make more than 500hp and can be paired with an 8HP for a sweet combo. Just have to figure out how to shorten the...

Looks like he was here yesterday.

@Brooks James