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I have one in San Diego. Where are you?

All the A-bodies I've seen use the same spring RH and LH for a given model. They made 4, 5, and 6 leaf versions and different front eye bolt diameters, but, the actual spring will interchange LH and RH.

Regulator comes out the bottom hole, glass with it's frame comes out the top slot. It should tip at an angle enough to slide out. You just have to rotate it one way or another to get the lower support track to clear the body stampings.

#3 is correct for a '60-2 A-body. It will fit the '63-6 models, but, the bar won't be properly clocked horizontal.

The flanges are different though, so, to use a later type axle shaft, you would have to cut off the end and replace it. Why not not just narrow your existing housing. Either way, you will need new axle shafts.....unless you plan on just using a stock tapered axle setup. Not something I would...

The drawbacks to stick-on emblems is that they can fall off eventually.

Sure, nything with an emblem used the old Valiant style instead of the new Plymouth emblem and fish....grille, horn button, wheel covers, and back glass chrome.

In over 45 years of looking, I think I have the earliest known '66 Barracuda. Anyone have a build date earlier than 8/17/65?

^^^^^^agreed, I don't believe any A-bodies came with a base that went around the door release handle.

Yeah, that appears to be from a '70-73 vintage. A '64 carb wouldn't have the bowl vent like that one. Doesn't the 273 2bbl carb have a different mounting bolt pattern than the 318? Somehow in the back of my mind I think so.

It's the curvature of the top edge that is slightly different.

The easiest way is to use all the parts off a '64-6 273 engine with power steering. My 2nd choice would be a similar setup off a '67-9 273/318. All the brackets and pulleys are different than the '64-6 stuff, but as a set, they should work. even though the return line diameter on the '67-9 pump...

The '64 Barracuda uses the same hood and nose emblem as the '65 Barracuda and Valiant.

Factory link it's: From inner washer to inner washer, 3 1/2". Overall length is 7 1/2".

The article mentioned (from just a quick scan) looked like it mainly dealt with the webbing and it's stitching method. Still, in the 1000's of wrecked cars I dealt with on a daily basis, I don't recall a single seat belt where the webbing or stitching failed....and most of these were older cars...

I've always wondered why NHRA makes you get your aftermarket seat belts and harnesses re-webbed every 5 years, but will let you run original 60 year old lap belts at antique drags. Having been in the auto repair and recycling business for over 40 years, I've never seen a seat belt webbing fail...

The one in Hemet?

Yeah, I have a crank that needs the thrust welded, but, can't find a machine shop here in San Diego that will do it. Do you have one there in Vegas that will do that? About what do they charge?

Makes me wonder why the seal went bad that soon after a rebuild. Faulty seal? Bad install? Nick on the sector shaft? I've replaced the pitman seal on old boxes by using a cheap dent puller with a screw-in adaptor. As mentioned, just be careful not to damage the sector shaft or you'll never get...

If you're using the stock exhaust manifolds, you'd be better off using 273/318 heads and installing larger valves. That way the port sizes will match better for flow and less prone to blow gaskets.

I've tested car radios for over 50 years by using a 12V battery without an issue. Just make sure you use a proper ground on the radio case, the correct speaker, and a good antenna that is plugged in and also properly grounded.

Boring out the cylinders is always dependent on the wall thickness and core shift, if any. You get too close to the water jackets and it will overheat regardless of how good your cooling system is. Getting custom pistons can be very expensive too.

2 wires=1 speed, 4 wires=variable speed.

Yup, pass everything but a gas station..... :lol:

Even then, some 360 parts for that car aren't the easiest to find either.....such as the motor mount brackets, oil pan, flywheel (if manual), torque converter or aftermarket 360 flex plate (if auto) along with the reducing bushing.....

It all depends on what you want in the end, and what your budget is. Factory stock, find an A273 block with a date code correct for your car's build date. Inexpensive, a 318 build using most of your 273 parts. Street thumper, get a 340 or 360 block and all the related conversion parts. Race...

What does the crank measure? What transmission are you using?

The variable part is in the switch.

The coupon code is 31years for 20% discount on most items. Good for gift certificates too.

That's when you need to learn how to double clutch. :lol: