If you’re looking for mpg ditch the 275-295 tires and go with a 225-255. 275-295 is way more tire than that combo could turn (burn) and the extra weight/drag eats a lot of fuel .
Will they even fit under your Dart ? My 69 Swinger has 255/60-15 Drag radials and they barely fit .
We do all kind of stuff to our street driven Mopars to get another 40 hp that we won’t use on the street just because we can. . Why not try to optimize fuel economy? Its just another way to tinker .
Nothing wrong with trying to maximize mpg . More range and less money spent . I use my Barracuda as a daily driver and with the 360 ( pig rich ) and 2.76 gears I got a best of 16 . Tat is with a 221/229 cam with .550 lift on a 112 ( Oregon cams ) .
Now I am finishing up an upgrade to a 4”...
So just to clarify.. truck and passenger biscuits look the same but the trucks used thicker ones from the factory.
You can mix and match them to get propper clearance for various headers .
Schumaker may make there own . I didn’t realize they provided them in the kit .
Looks like you have a truck mount isolator on passenger side and a car mount on driver side . Like saiid above try using 2 truck ( thicker ) isolators. Or flipflop the 2 you have now .
Most likely it is somewhere in the low to middle teens is it a performance cam for an efi engine .
Nothing wrong with a 112-115 cam . FAST class engine builds use cams with high LSAs to manage low end power/traction . As well as timing,compression etc….
So I pulled the engine and the 46rh today . I haven’t pulled the timing chain cover off yet but I do see that it has a cover with provisions for a mechanical fuel pump and a block off plate . Which leads me to hope that it might have a snouted cam .
What was the last year the cams had snouts . Im picking up a 91 360 tomorrow that is TBI but maybe they retained the old cam cores without mechanical fuel pump .
I verify TDC then mark both damper and cover accordingly with a contrasting paint pen .
This not only establishes TDC but also helps me see in all lighting conditions.
I would skip the HV pump and rebuild/blueprint the old stock one . It’s not complicated and very beneficial. In fact I would do the same to a new pump . Lots of flow to be had.
I just replaced my intake gasket yesterday and used the Edelbrock gaskets + Eddie Gasgacinch as recommended. It cured a vacuum leak I chased for a few years .
For another 400$ you can get Brians with cut down guides , Ferrea 2.02/1.60 stainless valves , Beehive springs/retainers and a really good valve job that flows much better. That is really cheap HP !
The intermediate shaft bushing came out of the block ? That is not good. Make sure it is in place tight when you replace it or it could spin in the block and turn to shrapnel.