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Alas…Could have been interesting.

If the engine is already together just leave it out . I have run engines without them with no negative effects . Besides you are most likely running a steel sprocket now not a plastic one . Which might be the reason they ran them from the factory.

Great deal ! I painted the one on my Dart and left the Barracuda as delivered. The paint doesn’t weather as well as I hoped but if you prep it properly and use a gun and automotive paint it should work much better.

I forgot about that . And I owned a car with a Rochester.

I think a Quadrjet is different bolt pattern and a spreadbore. 1405 would be the easiest way.

Suck, squeeze, bang and blow

If you don’t go 80+ on the interstate here some asshat will be 12” off your bumper in a monster truck . Even on my motorcycle! I prefer 65 unless I am traveling 100s of miles .

I just finished installing a 408 and a 46rh and 3.55s . Only driven it about 8 miles but I gave it a quick 1/4 throttle from a stoplight and it boiled the rears . My tires right now are just 205/70-14s Michelins but it had plenty to turn a bigger tire . 55 mph @ 2000 rpms ! My plan is to go...

That would make sense because of the annular boosters taking up so much area .

Dat was me … never had to do it till this build . Do you have grooved main bearings ? If not might have to turn crank to align galleys. Maybe you figured it out by now? Haven’t read entire thread yet.

True …. Currently all in by 2500. Might have to slow that down some and be all in by 3200ish .

I was at 16 intitial and 32 total + VA of 18 if I remember correctly. I can try staying at 16 with VA hooked to manifold port or use ported and recurve the distributor. The heads are EQ magnums ported by IMM . Good chamber …. Nothing else changed Pistons are Scat with a step dish . Quench...

I did . Smelled fine . Most every Edelbrock I have has done this to some extent . My theory is that having the jets in the floor of the body makes them susceptible to this . Super sensitive to float height and fuel pressure.

I set initial to 18* and on intitial drive up the street and back . the engine was shaking pretty bad. That could be the carb as well as the plugs are black . I am setting the floats right now because the carb is dumping fuel into the intake after shutdown.

That was my thoughts as well.

The point was to start a discussion explaining why the timing needs to change . Aspects like piston speed , cylinder filling, changes to DCR etc…. Many know that canges are required after a component change but not exactly why . The ability to visualize the process helps us become better tuners .

Once I start driving and tuning I will figure it out but conceptually I was curious.

No.. I used a Scat 4” crank , scat rods and Scat Stroker pistons , I should have said that the only change was the 4” rotating assembly.

And compression increased 1 point to 10:1 Will the increase in compression offset the piston speed ?

So I just finished installing my new 4” stroke engine and I got ti thinking about timing . Nothing changed but the 4” crank . Will my timing curve be different? Piston speed will be faster so will I need to advance my timing throughout the rpm curve ? Curious…

I can’t remember if the FSM has parameters for vacuum ?

I’m sorry ,I missed that post . I have never run the 68 4 sp cam but I have run many bigger cams . I would expect 12-14 @ idle and pushing 20 @ cruise . There will be variables like compression, timing , carb and exhaust system etc…. But under 10 just doesn’t seem right for that cam . Have...

Well I am running a solid roller with 246/250 and .648 lift on a 108 and I have around 8-9”s at idle and 18 cruising . That’s with a single plain intake . Just advance your idle timing to 12-14 and you will be golden . It takes 10 minutes counting getting your tools out !

Possibly the floats are set too high allowing fuel to drain into intake when you shut it off?

Now don’t be getting nasty Del . Lol

Back when I sold Dodge trucks we had an issue with Cummins engines failing . This was maybe 2 years into production. We were sending entire engines back for autopsy. What engineering discovered was that cheap airfilter elements were tearing and clogging the oil galleys . They sent out a TSB...

Ok

Drop the Fram and get a WIX .

Bump your timing to 16 and see what happens. If it helps you will need to recurve your distributor.

One way to find out …. Retard it and check vacuum then advance it and check . Easy enough . Results will be interesting.