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I pulled my engine and trany out from the top last fall and I will never do that again ! I run headers and by the time I was done jacking around with the header, starter , trany lines etc it would have been far quicker to just lift the body up and pull engine/trany/kmember and suspension. Like...

Oh …. It’s got a step not a groove . I interpreted it to be a groove from the seal . Got it !

weld it and have turned down on a lathe

what stall are you wanting ? I just had my 46rh L/U converter rebuilt and was told 2400 is about the highest factory stall.

I thought I had slack in my kickdown cable but obviously not enough . Factory hard linkage is easier to tell but it’s worth a few minutes of effort .

Disconnect the kickdown and drive up the street and back ( short drive) if you notice a difference then there is your problem. I just went through this with my new 46rh and thought I had the linkage adjustment correct. Nope …. Do you have a spring on the trany lever to pull it back ? Since...

I’m sure you have tried this but did you torque the nuts in a back and forth pattern. Like you would for a wheel ? I have had a few axles that didn’t want to line up with the splines but once they did they would go in .

Are those aftermarket axles ? Maybe your differentials still have buttons in them ? Don’t recall which ones had the buttons. Although I have a few NOS ones….

Oh… seals not seated all the way ?

also measure the distance from perches to the housing ends . Possible you have an housing that was cut down to incorrect length.?

Measure the axle to confirm they are the correct length . The housing would have to be REALLY bent for them to not go in .

Not really… I probably did more the neccesary. I cot the crossmember out and fabbed another out of 1/4” steel bar . But I could have gotten away with just trimming the stock one and welding 14ga sheet metal to it .

I am just finishing up the install of a 46rh and a 408 but in retrospect should have gone with a 42rh due to the smaller dimensions, lighter weight and deeper 1st gear (?) . They can be found in 2wd Dakotas and d150s from approximately 90-93ish maybe later . I have another 46rh as an extra...

What’s the advantage over a 42rh ? I don’t think you have to do much tunnel clearance work if any . The gear ratios are tighter although the 3.0+ first would get you off the line better and the .70 OD is nice . Not much different than a 42rh …. A 42rh can be built to handle lots of HP . And...

Almost there …

That is great

cheaper and simpler to get a 46rh or 42rh unless you have already rebuilt the RE. Should be easy to find in 2wd trucks and vans from 1990-1994 if I recall . I have a spare 46rh in my shed. Here is my 46rh getting ready to go into my 68 Barracuda.

I guess I worded that wrong . But to get the backlash correct you have to have the ring gears at the proper depth on piniin teeth . But as long as you have it apart might not be a bad idea to replace pinion bearings and seal . After all it is a 50 year old differential with lord knows how...

You will need to have someone install it and set ring gear depth and backlash.

Yes

My WAG is that the coolant exiting the radiator is far cooler than the water entering (190) and water is a very efficient heat sink. That gives the trany fluid a head start before entering the air to fluid cooler .

I guess I am asking if it could damage the transmission ? Or just over rev the engine ?

True but that would be an extreme example. I suppose if your doing 80 and floor it enough to drop to 3rd there would be a significant rpm spike but I don’t see myself doing that. Funny thing is that is exactly what my 2003 Ram does . I hate the programming on that trany ! It will bog when I...

I have found several different techniques for controlling the OD and LU . One uses 2 pressure switches and another uses one . I chose to go the simpler route using 1 switch and 2 timers . But I also read that it might be bad to have both disengage simultaneously? Why is that a problem? Here...

Thanks .. it’s hard to tell if that diagram is from top down or bottom up. Just want to make sure before soldering and assembling the plug .

Which of the 3 pins on the trany is LU and which is OD ? I have found diagrams but they don’t indicate the orientation of the plug … is the pin closest to the front the lockup ? Thanks

I pulled mine off a Jeep but honestly couldn’t remember which one it was . Never considered the offset difference but I shimmed mine to get proper caliper/rotor alignment .

Cherokee rear discs are a fairly easy swap .

Instead of filling thru the drain plug I use a funnel and a section of heater hose to fill it thru the axle tube before reinstalling the axle.

If you seldom go over 65 do it. Probably get better mpg in town .