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Has anyone ever had a lug nut come loose while driving? It really doesn't take even 55 lbs. For years I've used a 4 way and tighten them just like an oil filter- 1/4 turn after tight. I have not checked the actual torque on mine but I think it's probably closer to 30 lbs. After this thread...

Did it backfire while you had the clutch in? Was it a diaphragm clutch? If yes to both, remove bottom stamped dust cover plate from clutch housing. In neutral turn engine by had while looking at the back of the pressure plate. You’ll see the drag bars that attach the pressure plate to the...

Your other choice is to use a 1:1 isolation transformer and only ground the secondary side plus use a ground rod. This creates a virtually new electric service for the new building and isolates it from the existing system. Not a cheap way to go but safe and meets codes.

If this is a manual transmission with a diaphragm clutch and you had the clutch in when it backfired............it is likely you damaged the pressure plate to clutch cover connectors. If not a manual trans, please ignore this post!

I forgot to point out, the pick up line where the sock minutes on it was notc cut on a diagonal. The particular strainer sock had a plastic end that was flat. Since the end of the two was also flat, and the strainer could move up the tube, then the plastic end basically block the tube.Apparently...

I'm late to this thread, but I had something similar happening to my Dart. It would run just fine and then would starve for fuel and quit. I finally found it: the end fitting of the strainer sock on the fuel pickup in the tank was being sucked flat against the pickup line. Removed sock and...

I’m running a six pack on my 70 4-speed Dart using the standard 340 throttle cable. Working fine since 1982…..for what that’s worth!

All this talk about cam yet the OP wants a little more pull. Just my opinion, but OP needs to check compression and if ok why not look at a gear change- does it have 3:23 or something else. And exhaust- does it have stock mufflers or? Those are fast and low cost mods. If cam then I agree...

"simply backing off the throttle causes the vibration to stop" says it is torque related and not a balancing issue. I'd really be looking at U joints, pinion bearings, trans mount very closely. I'd think you'd know if the engine was missing.

Forgot to mention the reason for increased fuel pressure was I replaced the fuel pump. New pumps seem to have too much pressure for some reason.

I’ve been running a 6 pack on my 340 for a long time. The only thing I’ve had to do recently is install a fuel pressure regulator and gauge. These carbs do not like a lot of fuel pressure. Right now mine is set to 3.5 psi which works great. Without the reg it was running 8 psi and the floats...

Agree. Melanized gear and/or thinner oil fixed the problem, no wear at all on the gear now.

Here's my bronze gear after less than 25 miles. I was running 20w50 Brad Penn oil, switched to melanized gear and 10w40 and all is fine. Based on my experience I would not run a bronze gear on the street. BTW, solid roller cam.

Thanks for the pics, mine are in better condition so I’ll stick with what I have….

Thanks burks440, I just need the grille center section part, my headlight bezels are ok.

Thank you!!

Looking for 70 Dart front grill, straight front bumper, green kick panels. Thanks!

Perhaps someone that has an automatic can answer that, mine have all been 4 speeds

Thanks! If you plan on factory air conditioning I don’t think the factory air cleaner will fit, but probably easy to mod. Besides, I’d go with a modern compressor anyway…..

Yep, still available! For what it’s worth I’m using the A body standard 4 barrel cable on my ‘70 Dart, I’d guess the 2 barrel is the same…. Ken

It’s for my brothers ‘69 Dart, Thanks!

Looking for reasonable priced blue steering wheel like in the photo. Please PM me if you have one. Thanks, Ken

That looks like enough dimensions, let me see what I can draw up. Now that I see the picture I believe it can be printed with the rounded top. I'll post a picture of the drawing first, might take a day or so to get time to do it. Once it looks good then I can print a few samples. Thanks!

I'd need the hole size too, that sets the end of the plug you push into the hole.

This one? I could do that one, because of the way it must be printed the top surface would be flat rather than rounded. If you were looking for originality it wouldn’t look quite right, but it might be close. For 3D printing, one side must be on the printer bed. So that side will be flat...

I left the rubber gasket on for 1 week since the fuel level was lower than the gasket. When I took it off to put on the TPU gasket the rubber had already started to crack. That was a brand new rubber gasket, glad I got rid that one. Thanks to all of you for all the tricks on making the repo...

So far, full tank and no leaks so that TPU gasket is working fine. I really liked the way it compressed without pinching- the rubber gaskets tend to drag with the lock ring and pinch, when that happens you get a leak.

Hi Jim, I don't mind doing a few for the folks on this forum so sure I can do some for you. I'm not sure if the '71 VG Valiant has the same tank as a '70 Dart, but I'd expect it is. Especially if it uses the same sending unit. If you'll PM me your address I'll print out a few different...

Yes I think I could do that- I’d need an accurate pattern plus the thickness you want. I’m not wanting to get into the business of 3D printed gaskets but I’ll give it a try and you can see how you like it. While TPU will work for carb to air cleaner gaskets, it is heat sensitive so can’t be...

Replacing the sender in the tank of an A body typically results in a leak around the replacement rubber gasket. There’s been comments about the new lock rings being too thin, etc. Having a 3D printer handy and knowing TPU filament is flexible and impervious to gasoline, I’ve been using it for...