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Saw this on the back of a pickup truck in South Carolina LOL

Here's the schematic.

Flickering lights are caused a lot of times from the ignition switch contacts being dirty or worn. I had the same problem with my car and I've fixed a few of my friends cars but feeding the wire that typically comes from the ignition switch to the regulator through a relay. I'll look for my...

I have one of these in Chrome. It's 130 amps. It keeps up with 2 electric fans, electric power steering, high output headlights, fuel injection with electric pump and audio amplifier. Any alternator will only supply what the car's electronics demand up to the maximum output of the alternator in...

I'll feel better when you put the hood on. Remember what I said about sealing the hood to the rad support.

Are those temperatures with the hood opened or closed? If they're with it open, close the hood and see if it gets worse, I'll bet it does. If so then try stuffing a couple of towels in between the hood and the rad support. Should be better.

Your very welcome. Zero dollars to try the towel thing. Also it doesn't matter if you have a fiberglass or steel hood, if that seal is missing it's going to make your car run hotter. There's a reason that Ma Mopar put them there. Trust me if it wasn't needed they wouldn't have spent the money to...

Just out of curiosity, Do you have a seal on the bottom of the hood that seals against the radiator support? I have found that when idling with the hood open there's no issue and the engine will run at a reasonable 180-190° BUT if that seal isn't present what happens is heat from under the hood...

Premium 93 Gas $1.77/Gal (ALL GRADES) courtesy of Sheetz! I live near Pittsburgh in Butler. Sheetz has done this before, what a great company. This is their Independence Day gift. Wasn't too bad of a line (about 3 deep for each pump) so I didn't have to wait long. I filled my Dodge Caliber R/T...

Break out the Beach Boys hit......Round Round, Big and Round She's big and round.

Here's a picture of my 418 stroker. We moved all of the wiring and electrical components (starter relay, voltage regulator etc.) to a panel under the dash.

Hey Guys, I'm posting this add for a friend of mine. This engine was removed from his 17,000 mile 1977 Chrysler LeBaron. This engine is a Lean Burn so it's not a hot rod engine but it is a very quiet and smooth running engine for a daily driver or cruiser. You could probably change the heads to...

They turbocharged minivans as well. This thing does a better burnout than a lot of muscle cars LOL

This is one of my favorite videos. This is a k car with a turbo 2 Daytona engine in it. Listen to the crowd laughing him when he pulls up and the shocked reaction at the end. Wouldn't want to be the guy in the Supra in the left lane LOL.

Here's how I wired mine up. The relay is in there to eliminate the flickering headlight syndrome. This is typically caused by dirty ignition switch contacts. If you don't want to use the relay then just connect the blue wire that is coming from the ballast resistor directly to the I (ignition)...

Still waiting for the big stuff but I got the stocking stuffers edition of Mad Magazine. I grew up on this in the 7O's, It brought me right back! Its a collection of many years of Christmas content. I KNEW there'd be a Fold In and most importantly a list of mad sing to the tune of Carole lyrics...

So here's a link to the test drive video. I started out with the sensitivity adjustment about halfway and in the end I left it at about a quarter of the way up. You can literally park this thing palming the wheel if you're at half adjustment. I am considering installing a sensor on one of my...

I agree with you. The wiring in these old girls are marginal at best. That's why I made a fuse panel for my Dart and 2 of my buddies Mopars. While we were at it we move everything Ignition boxes, starter relay, voltage regulator and on the last 2 we even removed the bulkhead connector. We then...

So to install this I first bought another steering collum so I wouldn't destroy my original. We had to remove the collum and after disassembly we wound up cutting the lower half of the collapsible section off of the column (giving us more header clearance. We then fabricated a flange and welded...

Yeah I thought about notching the door and I'm also considering a fast ratio box as well

Yes, The motor interferes with opening the door. I can get it opened about an inch but I figured it was a small price to pay for power steering.

Oh and by the way, this defaults to manual effort steering in the event of a system failure,so it's safe.

I feel the same. It is pretty proven and the fact that I pretty much trashed all of the original parts 40 years ago (power steering didn't pertain to going fast and it was in the road of my cheap Eagle chrome headers), off it went. Fast-forward to today and I'd REALLY like my power steering back...

Also if you add the wheel sensor you can have 2 different levels of assist. One for when you're driving and one for parking lots

I'm considering the Borgeson box as well. The factory box isn't all that bad when you keep the assist at about 1/4 of scale.

Here's the links for the couplers we used. Borgeson Universal 014925 Borgeson Universal Steering U-Joints | Summit Racing Borgeson Universal 014925 Borgeson Universal Steering U-Joints | Summit Racing

The control module came with the kit. Here's the link. Flaming River FR40200 Flaming River Microsteer Electric Power Assisted Steering Kits | Summit Racing

Ii bought it from Summit. I've had it for several months sitting on the bench waiting while we built an engine for a friend of mines Dart Sport. I have a video that I took today but I have to post it to my YouTube page.

Always glad to help.

By the way, Notice the extra header clearance