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Where on the socket did you solder the extra ground wire? I'm having a similar problem and that sounds much easier than trying to track down a grounding problem.

Will do

These are awfully heavy and I'd worry the boxes couldn't handle it. In the meantime, I do have another member that's currently looking into shipping using Fastenal, if that doesn't work I'll check out the flat rate boxes and get back to you.

Price drop to $100

Picked up at an estate sale. $150 for all. Local pick up only unless you want to arrange shipping. These things are heavy! Pics available upon request. All are used but in good shape. #6227-1 and 6227-2 Spring Compressor and Alignment Shaft #C-3863 Front Clutch Assembly Remover and...

$125 or best offer on all, or sell individually.

$150 or best offer now.

Probably close enough. I'd put the key in RUN and make sure you have voltage at the end of that blue/white wire, the one that comes out of the connector to the ballast resistor, if no voltage try wiggling the wire at the bulkhead connector. If you get juice there, it's a bad connector. If...

If it's dying when the key is in RUN, it sounds like you've got a bad wire or loose connection in the RUN circuit (or a bad switch which I doubt). I believe it's labelled IGN2 on the wiring diagrams and is the blue wire, not the brown wire coming off the ballast resistor, at least on the '69...

Got these at an estate auction last weekend, guy had a transmission shop and must have specialized in Chrysler transaxles. Most have Pentastar on them, some do not. All are loose without packaging but in good shape as far as I can tell. I don't do paypal and that other nonsense, so if you...

Seems like that would work, but try running a wire from the + battery terminal to the + coil terminal. Leave the ballast hooked up. At least then you know you've got power to your coil. if that's a stretch, you could run a wire from the big lug on the alternator to the coil + terminal.

How did you bypass the ballast resistor? Does it still start in START and die in RUN on the switch?

Put a jumper between the two terminals on the ballast resistor (with the normal ignition wires still hooked up). If it starts and runs, the ballast resistor is probably bad. If it still starts when the key is in start, but shuts down once you put it in acc, then you probably have a bad...

You won't necessarily need new rear wheels, if your new 8 3/4 is SBP, nor will you need a new driveshaft if the one you have can be cut down and balanced. Hopefully another will chime in about whether or not you'll need to have the 8 3/4 narrowed or not and/or the spring perches...

I've got a 99 Dakota that is one of the rustiest things I've seen in a while. I got it 7 years ago and it was getting bad then, but truthfully I've nothing to stop the rust's march across the body. I will say, though, that at 180K+ it is one of the most reliable vehicles I've had. Always...

You can always get another distributor cap and drill a hole in it to check for spark between the rotor and the tower. I'll admit I'm not sure where exactly to drill the hole, but I've read plenty of posts where this is done to check rotor phasing. This would allow you to view the spark as the...

That's how I'll do the next one.

I unfortunately dared to try.......once.

Still a good idea to have the headers off the motor so you can lower it into the engine compartment without them getting in the way of anything or scraping the paint of the compartment itself. Lower the motor little by little and periodically check that the headers won't cause a problem with...

Do you know if there is any functional difference between the cable for the 727 and the 904? If not I have a cable for a 727 that I ran for a year before going with the Bouchillon.

A CC2375 on a big block should be the right one, I got the inlet/outlet reversed on my prior post.

I would think that the CC2374 is the one you're looking for. Its listed as 67-69 Dart, but ithas the inlet and outlets on the proper side for a big block and the dimensions should fit the 73 Duster.

Maybe a good question to ask is "Has anyone every had problems with an aftermarket throttle pressure cable setup". While they may not have come stock on our cars, a lot of effort has gone into engineering a cable replacement to the rod linkage system that was stock. I'd like to think that the...

It should provided it also has a small block V8. Otherwise I believe a couple of the wires may not be the correct length. Pretty sure they would be too long though so that may not be a problem. I seem to remember the oil pressure sender for a /6 and BB motors are in the front of the block so the...

Gotcha, thanks.

What specifically are the differences between the 67 and the 69? I thought they were all the same, with the exception of the differences between SB and BB/Slant 6.

I actually may have the entire underhood harness off a 69 273. If it's what I think it is, I've checked all the connectors for continuity so everything works, it just looks old. I believe it's been modified for electronic ignition but still has the mechanical voltage regulator. I'll do some...

It's gotta be ultra rare, it has "Engine barley", too bad it's broke.

The tach acts exactly the same at all RPM, engine runs great.

Original idle was 750. The tach acts the same at any RPM. Wire I'm using is the same as with the electronic ignition I replaced but routing has changed a bit so I'll check that out and maybe re-reroute it. What do you mean by twisted pair? Could the same reluctor gap make a difference...