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Along time ago, I pulled a 318 out of a 67 belvedere, it had a factory single plane and a 2 barrel Stromberg carb. I shoved it in my 72 Demon complete with 727 Trans. Rear was 8 34 with 2.94 gears. Engine was real loose worn. Tuned it as best as I could, points you know.Decided to move to NJ...

I will guess input shaft sheared. But a thorough investigation will be in order to find this problem. any noises with the engine running and in park or neutral?

accumulator piston spring [Just a guess] or a slow releasing manual low band.[maybe servo]. How does it shift when just placed in drive [from a stop].

junkyard, in a pickup, motorhome or a van

8 3/4 is expensive to build a strong version. 8 1/4 is way more common because of the variety of vehicles it was used in. [jeeps etc.] So it has support from the 4wd community. That makes it easier to build. Still it has the C clips but they dont seem to be troublesome like the gm C clip axles.

Not much to do. the E body spindles will bolt to the 73 and up A body suspension. if you have an older A you will need the 73 and up, upper control arms. If you don't have the spindles, look for the later A body spindles or F or M body spindles. the lower ball join will be the 73 and up disc...

what a brain that guy has. must be a genius

pinion length is different [axle centerline to center of U-joint] Dana has a longer pinion. About an inch. could be compensated for with the right parts. [special yoke etc.]

not sure bout mounting them on a 7 inch wide rim though. might need to stick with the 205's at minimum

14 inch tires are still very common. you can get some goodyear viva's in a 195 75 R 14 at walmart. Fairly inexpensive and they would be just a touch narrower that the 205's. 205 70 r14 could be an option too.

ARP studs, billet caps and a stud girdle. I believe hughes makes a girdle for the small block. splayed caps are an option but I am not sure if they're worth the hassle. It depends how far you're gonna twist the thing. It is a cast steel crank I presume.

the problem is that all the machine shops are disappearing and the older dudes that had the knowledge on the older stuff are disappearing too. It's a tight margin when you have to compete with turn-key crate engines that are tested before they get shipped. I believe the younger fellow who took...

well, this topic could open a large can of worms but worms can be a healthy nutritional snack so I will take a stab at it. If you twist the distributor to increase the timing and the rpms immediately jump up then you need the extra timing [more initial advance] if you twist it some more and it...

10 to 1 or if you got a large cam maybe a bit higher. [you can bleed off compression with a big cam]. I'm being on the safe side here IMHO. Big blocks tend to get touchy in the street with too much compression.

ok. If that is the case then someone did an extremely good job of cutting the two holes [each about 4 inches] and drilling the holes for the studs and on the inner structure of the hood. Maybe I can get some pics to show what I am talking about.

Need info on hood scoop. Did the 360 dusters automatically come with the scoop? [not sure how to describe it, it is the single scoop with the two openings]. The reason I am asking is that the Gold Duster that I have came with this hood and scoop. And on top of that, it appears that the hood is...

looking good so far. BTW, don't loose any of the long skinny bolts, they are impossible to get as far as I know.

sweet....wish I could afford the W-2 setup. Does ma mopar still sell the large-port commando heads? I know tthey require the offset rockers also. still a bit pricey for those too.

sweet truck though. Nice score. now to get her reliable. My bud had a 1998 with over 265000 miles on it so I know its possible.

I think what is meant is to check for intake leaks. The magnum intakes have a habit of leaking through the valley area into the intake itself. {if you've got oil fouled plugs at the rear position, this is a sign of the leak] There is a kit sold that fixes this problem. There is a test also. I...

tough question but in the end I think the eddy's is the best "all around" choice. Best bang for the buck would be some ported j heads.

i used a Melling chain. seemed to be of good quality. Used it on the 'teener. Think I paid around 38 bucks. [from the machine shop].

...ouch...[says the postman]

How expensive are the Doug's? might have to try a set. Anybody got the TTI's on a spool mount car? {'73 up} wondering if I may have the same issues? Have not made a choice on headers. {might end up fabbing my own}

the 4.10's will need the tall 275/60's. Not too fun on the street but it depends on you definition of fun. Of course an overdrive trans could help. If its strickly a drag car, no problemo.

if you buy a flux core you can weld the floor pans but the thinner sheet metal [like quarters] will be almost impossible. you will burn through very easy on the thinner metal. I have a very old lincoln that I bought in 1992 at Home depot [lincoln 100 ?]. Then I went back to home depot to buy the...

I think I would just stick with the orange box IMHO. HEI is ok but the difference in performance is little. Rev-a-nator is good step up from the orange or chrome box, but at a cost of course. Maybe try the revanator and keep the orange box for a back-up.

might help a little IF it is compatible with the orange box...but only if. The factory coils fired some fairly wide plug gaps in the late 70's so I believe they work extremely good.

....you could have the drums machined to fit.....on second thought, yeah I see where this is a big snafu... finding the right backing plates and all....I do see that the drums you have are drilled for both patterns, that seems strange. Did the axle's come with both patterns? Good luck.

From personal experience, the front seat from a 1973 Dart 4 door was installed in my '72 Demon and it fit fine however, it seems like it sat up a little higher.[which was fine by me]. Of course it may have been because the demon's seat was too "roached" to begin with. I used the Dart seat...