Search results for query: *

I find that the bumpers were installed prior to undercoat. Front bumper brackets usually have overspray on the rear area. Pretty much any part in the general area of the wheel wells would be installed prior to undercoating. The rear axle rebound bumpers were undercoated, so were the front fender...

I have done this exact conversion. I used the entire front inner structure with headlight mount from the 69 fender and swapped it into the 74 fender, and cut and butt welded in the side marker opening.

It was designed that way. You have to lock the door from the outside with the key.

70-72 use the same brackets. Sounds like you have 1973 brackets. 1973 added the horizontal bar because of the 5 mph impact regulations for 1973. These brackets also place the bumper further out.

AMD makes 67-69 Barracuda trunk extensions [trunk drops]. I have installed them and they are excellent. 67-68 fenders are not the same. There are differences in the headlight and bezel mounting. But the basic stamping of the 67, 68, and 69 fenders are the same, other than the 69 side marker. A...

So for 67-69 Barracudas currently AMD makes: front valance. Inner fender aprons. outer rocker panels. inner rocker panels. full interior floor. trunk floor. trunk floor extensions. full outer quarter panels. outer wheelhouses. inner wheel houses. rear deck panel. rear valance. Front / rear...

Comparing early A bodies to the 67 and newer cars, the dimensions are very close. The biggest change in the 67 re-design was widening the front frame rails. The basic centre structure of the 66 and older cars is basically the same as the 67 and later cars. I would suspect that a Duster floor...

My 74 Dart Sport has the electric grid rear defroster. It also has E58 360, snorkel hood scoop, hood blackout, dual racing mirrors, sunroof, buckets, console, and fold down back seat. Many A bodies in Canada have the rear window defog blower.

The vinyl parts like dash pads, arm rests, visors, and seats all take dying very well. The hard plastic parts like the upper door panels on the 73-76 A bodies often are oxidized, and sometimes a very careful bead blasting with very fine grit will clean it off and leave the texture unharmed...

Also, check out the SEM website. Top quality products, and they have detailed instructions on the proper cleaning and preparation for each product. They have a wide variety of aerosols, and can mix from formulas too

Classic Industries has a line of interior plastic paint that has accurate Mopar interior colors. I have used a lot of it, and it's very good. Adhesion promoter is needed on some plastics, but not all. Kick panels for example, need it.

Chrysler changed their paint code system in 1969. Your DD-1 code is the method Chrysler last used in 1968

This is correct. Some colours carried over. For example. FY1 Top Banana yellow came out in 1970, therefore F, for 1970, Y for yellow, 1 for light, and this color was available for a few years following, so the code did not change. B5 blue though, did change over the years, so the prefix changed...

If you insist on dipping it, at least cut away the rusty lower quarters etc so all the crud can drain out. If you don't, all the junk, dirt, bullets, bottle caps and wrenches that fell in the quarters over 50 years will still be in there. Having restored a car that was dipped, I would never do...

Top photo with tape measure hooked on left corner of trunk lid

The emblems are metal. I hooked the tape measure on the lower corner of the trunk lid.

I can take some measurements for you

Here is my original paint 72 Demon 318 car. From my research, the "regular" Demons use the two Dodge and Dart emblems like this. The 340 cars use the stick on DODGE emblem, because they had the stripe with demon 340 right below.

67-70 and early 71's have the same inner fenders, other than some minor year to year details. All the left sides are basically identical other than the battery tray reinforcement changed starting in 70. Late 71-72 have a recess on the right panel for the charcoal canister. 73-76 have a larger...

70-72 Valiant hoods will fit, but be aware of the differences in hood mounting to the hinge. 70 and some 71 hoods have a sliding plate in the hood, and the hinges have small holes. Some 71 and most 72's have fixed plate in the hood and large holes in the hinges. Mixing and matching can make for...

Here is a comparison of AMD panels to the generic parts Facebook

AMD is the only company making full quarters for Darts. AMD did make quarter skins and patches, but they discontinued them a couple years ago. The AMD skins were fantastic parts, and it's unfortunate that these are no longer available. The quarter skins sold by Sherman etc are a generic panel...

I agree. Mopar hinges are so easy to rebuild. The HELP kits at your parts store have the right pins and bushings. The uppers take 5 minutes to do. The lowers do not have bushings originally, so the holes need to be drilled out a bit larger for the bushing, and a bit of grinding is needed to add...

Could be. I have both types, so I will have a close look. Edit* I looked at all my 70,71, and 72 hoods and see no crumple zones. The 73-76 hoods do have differences in that regard, as 73 hoods have no crumple zones, and 74-76 do

to clear up the controversy: 1970 Dart hood has loose plates with threaded holes inside the hood. The 1970 [and all 67-70 A body] hood hinges have small holes. The front hole is round, the rear hole is slotted to provide a bit of up and down adjustment. On this system the hood is adjustable...

The AMD trunk floor incudes the gas tank bracket. It is supplied loose, but it is included

I have installed many AMD A body inner aprons. They fit excellent. Just installed a pair in a Dart. BTW, you can install them without drilling any holes in the new apron. I drill the old aprons off by drilling all the way through the lower pieces, and doing all the welding from the wheel side...

72 and newer rarely crack. They were built with the reinforcement

From 67-71, The door latch pillar on all A bodies was only one layer of metal, and the striker was bolted to it. Years of slamming doors cause this to crack. Chrysler knew this was a problem, so starting in 1972, A bodies had a reinforcing plate spot welded to the back side where the striker...

Epoxy primer, then topcoat is the best choice. I like to use PPG DP epoxy, or Omni MP epoxy. You can reduce either a bit to make them spray out, and lay down easier. Self etch primer is very misunderstood and often used incorrectly. When a car body panel is sanded to bare metal, it is...