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Anyone out there seen or done a 66 or 68RFE swap behind and older LA360 or 440 and had it work?

Got my parts Wednesday. Had plans to put them in this week in but some stuff went down at work yesterday so I'm working out of town this week end.:(

Distributer is out. Cant get the shaft to lift out.

Found the problem. Looks like the drive shaft is rounded off too. Whats the best way to get the shaft out?

"I hope this turns out to be a minor learning lesson, nothing major." Yeah me too.

Thanks. I'm thinking I'm gonna drop the pan and go through it when I get another full day to tackle it.

You have to pull the timing chain off to spin it with a drill right?

No did not take the pump apart. It is a new Milodon pan and pick up.

Thanks for the SCREWED diagnosis. Yes I removed the main bolts and yes I torqued them as required. Yes I put oil back in.

It ran fine prior to the changes. The pick up nearly touches the bottom of the sump. I checked the pressure today. No pressure. I'm thinking I lost the prime on the pump. Now to figure out how to get it to prime without pulling stuff apart. I was thinking maybe its possible to push oil down to...

Ok just recently pulled the engine to put in a windage tray and an 8 quart pan. I got the deep sump pick up also. Got the motor back in and it runs and sounds like crap. Rough idle and seems to surge while idling. Its making all kinds on noise on the driver’s side of the motor. Sounds like a...

I'm hopeing QA1 fixed the issues with the K-member. wouldn't mind getting one. I liked the original concept but it was poorly constructed.

Check these LCA's out instead. http://www.dillingerchassis.com/ These are what QA-1 should be selling.

Not a bad idea but I think I want to keep my box. I don’t have a center console box. At least not yet. Thanks for the input though. I’ll keep it in mind

I though about trunk mount but have read bad reviews about doing it. Ron Francis made a few good points about not putting it there. Hadn't though about taking out the Heat/ A/c unit and putting in a smaller system. What did you or are you going to replace it with? Got a pic of your work. A good...

Planning a complete rewire soon. For those out there that have already done this I was wondering where and how you mounted your fuse panel under the dash? Please post pics if you got them. Thanks in advance.

What do you do with the brown wire when you have removed the original ingnition system and installed an MSD disy and ICU? MSD recomended bypasing the ballest resistor.

Would you happen to have a 50cc accelerator pump and .35 or larger discharge nozzels in your box of Holley parts?

Does it have to be carbon steel? That seems above what is needed. Couldn’t it just be steel? Your design looks solid enough that you could fab it out of aluminum and still maintain structual integrity.

When is the kit for sale?

Seems like there are never any good deals on the West Coast.

I like the white. I like how it stands out and looks like high end after market.

Outstanding work. Finally a solid after market lower control arm. Defiantly considering a purchase but want to know if the coil over’s and strut arm are included, extra, or even available? I already have my shock towers stiffened so all I would need would be the lowers, shocks, shock adapter...

Haven't bought a voltage regulator but got my starter relay from Napa. Think it was under 25 bucks. Good product and looks just like the original part.

Ok today I added an additional quart of fluid to It. The level was already good added the quart anyway. Put a gage on and tested governor pressure. 0psi in park and 0psi through all the gears with the break on at idle. Lifted the rear wheels and checked again. Steady psi increase with RPM...

I missread this. No I havent checked the governor pressure. I will as soon as I get some time again.

I was reading somewhere that you can’t put 5 clutches in a 4 clutch front drum. Something about the drum splines not engaging all the clutch plates. I did put 5 plates in the front drum. Could this be the source of my troubles.

I checked the gap spacing between the lever and the piston in the valve body. Dont know where or how to physically check the throttle pressure.

Funny, I'm the rebuilder and no I dont have a clue.

Any suggestions out there? Trying to not totally lose all the cash I just put into this rebuild.