Search results for query: *

If you were making 800hp it wouldn't matter if you used the 741, 742 or 489. The problem when it breaks will not be because of the gear or pin strength, it will be the cap that ruins the day. .

Spicer 1330 is nearly the same as the detroit 7290. Spicer 1310 would be like the detroit 7260. Detroit like Saginaw were companies spun off by Dodge and GM and made slight changes to what are really Spicer joints. All they did were use inside clips and add a 16th/32nd to cap diameters...

So you know the DS loop is a part so when you break the joint at the line they can push the car off the track without needing a jack.. Neither are meant to prevent a failure at speed from getting ugly.

The issue with going from old original 2.7 and 2.8 and 3.2 series gears and then jump to 4.1 and other series are your driveshafts were never balanced for those rpms. That is your sounds you heard, wasn't the gears just your shaft is now operating where it never did before. .

I like US gear, Motive, Nitro, AAM, Dana, Precision (which may be US gear now also)

Just toss it, nothing will happen

Check and make sure the joint is the same series for the end yoke of the new diff... pin angles cause issues at LOAD, not cruising...or far more likely to be a problem at load

That's such a salesman line... Dana makes the clutches for them, dana makes the entire thing... If that was true EVERY dana traclok, powrlok would all have problems. Just get the Kendall FM , i use it in all clutch LS's and i don't have any problems

Not as angle issue.

The carrier will work regardless of having the ability to hold the TR

15 mins on jack stands isn't a heat cycle. 15 miles in stop and go, nothing over 60 for 4 series and up, then cool completely, repeat and then do as you please.

The set up is wrong, the pin setting is most likely running at the top of the ring

c clip

One should be quieter than the other, the 41 and 9 should be both

Nothing is right, bring it to someone that can do this for you

Use as little back space as possible. you don't want to have links and or bars to far inboard from the housing ends , you want those mounted as close to the housing ends as possible. That is ideal for suspension control and housing deflection.

If the nut was loose you would have noise on decel, what you're describing is the set up is ever so slightly off, that adjustment is very very slight and then that noise will go away

Ok then you measure the wheelbase and pull up the back seat and figure out how long the shaft needs to be. While you do that and confuse the ever living **** out people on this board that don't know the difference between a 8.75 and dana and 7.2 and 8.2 , let alone if they have a 727 or...

I didn't misunderstand, who cares what the wheelbase is, it isn't going to help you get to a definite dimension. It doesn't matter what it is, saying you have 111" or 108" means nothing, unless you know the dimension the motor is bolted to in relation to that front centerline and then the...

So you're telling people to measure the wheelbase and then figure the driveshaft length because if you have a 111" wheelbase and a 340 and 727 and 8.75 that the shaft length will be what is printed in that book. Ok so everyone measure your wheelbase and then measure the driveline length...

Wheel base does not dictate where the trans and motor are located, the motor and trans dimension to the diff are what makes the length of the shaft, the wheel base doesn't. Sure a long bed truck may have a longer shaft than a short bed, and that is not always true. However you DO NOT...

Wheelbase has nothing to do with shaft length

I would go to a TT in the 9.25 ASAP and lose TL in it

That particular diff doesn't use a carrier break, but still may need a new carrier if that sg is worn. To be honest id change to a TT while doing the change now

That requires machining and they bring with it other problems that need even further attention. .

If the cap measurement is correct then you need a 1330 S joint, not a 1330, if you measure the saddle again and it measures 1.06 not 1.12 then you need a 1330 and not a 1330 S

and some were 2.75" shafts..... this is how people get hurt by pillaging crap together. Are you beyond 800hp ?

How do you figure 2.94 to 3.23 is 600 rpm ? It is 200 rpm, not anywhere near a 600 rpm difference. If you wanted a 600 rpm difference then you need a 3.80.. Not a 3.23 . . .

When you change an axle

Yes, this is just like motors main caps, same applies