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It's hard to tell... does it have rubber floors or carpet?

I filled in the spots where I cut out the "humps" that kept the bench seat at the right angle. I put some sound deadener in, welded some brackets to the seat rails, and drilled the holes to bolt the seat down. I discovered that the transmission tunnel is not centered. It is actually...

This isn't the greatest picture in the world. It doesn't show the damage very well. The 43 year old foam on the dash is cracked and has big dips in it. You can see all the way to the metal in parts. I am going to re-foam the dash. I looked around and did searches for how to re-foam a...

I just found this thread... subscribed. Where did you get the dash? Is that a Rocky Mountain dash? I thought I found all of the modern hemi transplant threads... until now.

Thank you. I appreciate feedback. It keeps me motivated. Unchartered for sure. I haven't seen anyone else do an A-body, column-shift modern hemi transplant. I am making it up as I go. The doctor did a good job. The scar is minimal. I just wish I had a better story about how I got my...

I was wondering the same thing.

I want to start wiring everything up, but I can't really start on that until I get the dashboard finished. I want to get the guages and switches in. In an earlier post, I showed where I cut the sheet metal out of the dash. That way I could just start from scratch. I bought some sheet metal...

Men are always willing to do a lot of work to add an inch... O:)

Thank you for the bump... It really does feel better knowing that people are interested.

I have good news to report. I was able to get the shift linkage AND the starter to clear the header. That's good, too. I was beginning to get discouraged. It's not easy finding information online about putting a modern hemi into a Dart with a column shift transmission. Since I don't have...

I was able to get my shifter working great... or so I thought. Below, you can see my "shift" in the rod. I had to do this when I moved the steering column over. Also, for anyone else putting TTI headers on a 5.7 hemi with the Alterktion k-frame. I discovered that you need to remove this...

That's interesting. I had to leave my Dart behind when I graduated from University of Florida and got a job in Chattanooga. (I couldn't take 2 cars) It still ran great when I gave it away to someone who really needed a car. I always missed that car, which is why I bought this one.

Wow! I didn't think to look at the number of views. I guess there are a lot of lurkers here. Sorry about my rant.

Thanks, Hemi. I am glad someone is reading it. I forgot about the Nats. Maybe that explains it.

Well... I guess no one gives a **** about this thread. I posted 10 days ago and no one commented. Oh well. I don't really care. Really, what I am trying to do is help others who might want to put a modern hemi into a 4-door, column shift, 68 Dart "sleeper". Considering the small pool of...

I almost forgot... I had to trim the firewall some to get the steering column to fit.

I had some clearance problems with the steering column and the hemi. Here is how I solved the problem. I disassembled the steering colum to isolate the firewall-mounting-plate. Here is the plate before modification... you can see the hemi head through the hole. I am going to modify the...

I bought the XV Motorsports transmission plate. Until I got this plate, I always thought the threaded pieces on the torque converter were evenly spaced around the circumference. I marked the plate and torque converter so that, in the future, I don't spend so much time finding the correct...

I had to move the proportioning valve. Where I had it before was right next to the header. I could just imagine the header cooking and boiling the brake fluid. So, I fabricated a backet to put the proportioning valve further away from the header. At first,I sprayed it with a cheapo can of...

Here is another update. I bought an SSBC power brake booster and master cylinder from Mancini Racing. I had to do some modifications to the bracket that mounts to the firewall to make it fit flush. I bolted it all up and checked for leaks. I wanted to test for leaks BEFORE I put the...

If you are talking about that lever that spreads out the rear brake shoes when you apply the parking brake, I just bought some from Stephen's Performance. They know what they are worth, too. I paid $300 for the entire rear end (minus the parking brake levers) from a fellow FABO member. The...

It's been a while since I updated, so here it goes. I bought some shock plates from Mancini Racing (thanks "DARTGAME"). They fit great. I finished the steering column and brakes. I decided to remove the line-lock. I can see myself getting into trouble with that. Also, I ordered from...

It was pretty simple, actually. I cut a sheet metal "ring" and used a die grinder with a carbide bit to put in the 3 notches where it bolts up. I measured the ID (inside diameter) of the "ring" (I think it was 6.25 inches) and multiplied it by "pi" (3.141592654) to get the inside circumference...

Wow. I am glad I don't live in Florida anymore. I seem to remember Love bugs being an August/September thing. We are having the every-14-year cicada thing going on right now. Those things are LOUD!

Thanks! I just bought a pair. Now, for the "brake-shoe-separator-lever" :sad:

Yes! It was on Craig's List. I bought it in Florence, AL. It was also on ebay for about $400 more than Craig's list.

I discovered a few problems when installing the rear end. First, the rear end that I bought did not have the "parking-brake-lever" that spreads the brake shoes. I have the one from the original rear end, but it is not long enough. (pic below). I have been searching for this part for a...

I tried the small hose clamp. It worked great. Thanks for the tip.

Unfortunately, there is not too much progress to report. I dont' want to drop the engine in until I make sure that there are no leaks in the brake system. That means that I need to put in the "new" (to me) rearend in. However, I am having a difficult time removing the emergency/parking brake...

"Old Man Mopar" convinced me to mount the tie rod ends on the bottom to prevent bump steer. But, I still had the clearance problem. What I did, was put washers on the bolts and mount the wheel. Each time, checking the clearance. Once the wheel cleared, I measured the thickness of the stack...