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need single or dual plane EFI manifold for a B block

Ive been running an a1000 for 5 years with no controller.. Pump runs with the car.. The controller would be nice to cut down the noise, but not needed especially on a budget build

Made just around 800 hp.. I hear you with too noisey.. I have absolutley huge flows.. Cant remember the model but they are designed for Rv's in 3" config.. Still so loud.. I'm a bit old for this loud car business. I would like very much to settle mine down.. Do borla have packing ?

This bring a good point.. While everyone likes a good deal when you get something like an Alterkation you also get all Bills geometry knowlege and numbers. Bill is incredible and knows mopars like the back of his hand.. especially a-body. Now I'm not saying this guy doesnt know what hes doing...

I have the supercharger store one.. Its a few years old.. Mine doesnt have a pressure regulated output like some do.. Mine comes on a 4lb and sprays.. Seems to work fine anyways..

Man I think you should fix the AC.. Seriously.. Rather than go through all that trouble to get rid of it.. Why not just get it working.. AC cars are the best !! An if its the power drail you are worried about.. It doesnt make a lick of difference when it isnt running..

be-cool and dual spal.. 170 with the air running

The packing will get blown right out.. use flowmaster... I had magnaflow on my blown cuda and it was rediculous the amount of material being blown out.. We had to put resperators on at the dyno shop...

point taken.. I used to own a shelby turbo back in 85.. bought it new.. I remember winding that little 2.2 engine up to get it going ! problem with that things was the trans.. I blew two of them up in short of 20K miles. Still it was a fun ride.. later I traded it for a mustang 5.0 which was...

Prochargers are a serious hoot on a bb.. the instant on torque is a near sexual experience.. I can see the advantage to the slight turbo lag getting off the line for a turbo though.. I dont drag race but it would seem an advantage. Beyond that the procharger has a very predictible power curve...

Most people forget to think about water in a na engine.. Before I got blown I had a 500 inch motor very prone to det.. I put a spray nozzle under the carb.. viola.. pump gas nb...

The blower certainly takes a couple hp.. In the end however it simply is a matter of fact that an engine is an airpump. The power its going to make is simply a factor of how much air and fuel can get stuffed inside. That really doesnt change depending on what method of forced induction is used...

Ive had mine for 5+ years.. Been all over the country with it.. excellent excellent stuff. You can also get air bags etc.. Its really endless what RMS brings to the suspension table..

474 with D1SC using water/meth ( right arouund 800 hp ) And notice the lack of complicated plumbing.

Ok So you have trimed the radiator support and moved the stuff forward to some degree.. What are you going to do with the hood ltach mechanism ? I moved my radiator and ac gear to the other side of the radiator support all together.. But now no stock hood latch..

I love this type of thread !! 1400 hp !! well there are very simple realities that often get forgotten. Regardless the type of intake charge boost used, the motor is still an air pump.. There are a couple volumetric considerations, but as a rule, 1 atmoshphere (14lb ) = 50 % horsepower increase...

Dynamat is expensive !! I used b-queit products.. The hole car in "dynamat" like product and the entire floor in 3/8 inch foam and neopryne.. Probably added 50 lbs to the car but alot of noise gone.. Now to address the fresh air system and under dash noises.

There is obviously so much that can be done.. But bigger is always better.. High dollar solutions fix all this.. First if you really want a car that handles.. time to ditch the bars and get an alter-k-tion.. Also good for 150#. As stated all aluminum parts and get a modern trans..

I posted on BBD... On this site SRT-68 resto page.. He has a pic of a 68 fastback with the vent windows removed.. Nice ! I would love to hear from someone who has done it though..

I have one and it looks like it... I will be taking it off and sending to just dash this winter. Its not terrible but its not good either. in the end its not correct.

I have done a little research on this... General thinking is this is a non issue for blower applications.. I will tell you in a couple days though what the real world application is. I currently have a zero deck reverse dish piston set up at 9:1.. I am going to ruin my quench on purpose by...

I have been running up to 16lbs for a couple years with only a single nozzle into the blower.. I'de be lying to you if I told you I dont have to be careful with timing and fuel mix but all these devices may be a bit overkill. Now I am using aluminum heads on a big block but still at 9:1.. As...

Curious where you have mounted the water injector ? Normally you want it on the input side of the blower so it atomizes in the turbine.. In your application though I would think the water vapor might condensate in the intercooler ? Where do you have it mounted ?

I run a procharger at 16lbs through a carb shop blow through.. I use water/meth injection. It all works very well on top of a 474. The carb has major prep work.. You will want to have a good carb.. Expanded bowls, preasure equalized.. power value protection etc.. You will also want to tune on a...

Not a bad start.. Cant wait to see that engine sorted..