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I need a Driver's side window regulator for the BIG window for my 1968 Barracuda Fast Back. Whatever happens to fit. If needed I will buy a pair, but I need the regulator as my old handle stripped out the gear. Thanks for the help!

Good to hear! Guess it's off to spending more money!

Any luck with this? or havent you had time yet? I'm pondering,a nd hoping, that new rockers and rocker arms might fix my ticking issue. Its driving me insane! hope it fixes yours!

Ahhh ok, good luck! Yeah, the pushrod/head clearance was tight but its aligned properly. If it were Edelbrock heads, you'd have to most likely open up the pushrod holes. i had to on mine, they were rubbing. I was hoping that was the cause of the noise but its not it. Next step is spend more...

Hey Mike, Did you get this sorted out yet? Did the new rockers and pushrods fix the noisey valve train? I'm curious as I have the same issue that has been annoying the CRAP out of me the last two years! Hope it all worked out buddy!

Hey guys, I know this is a double post, and in the wrong section technically.. but I really need an answer asap! I'll copy/paste on over here. Again, sorry for the double post, but I just need to get this ordered and here before next week is over. And shipping to alaska is far from quick!

Quick question, I need a new sending unit. Heard the e-bay ones dont always work right so I was going to go with the Goodmark one from Summit. First off, does this work with the stock fuel guage? as in, any issues with it not reading properly? And secondly, does this sending unit fit the...

That shouldnt be there as far as I know. Ive only seen a couple big blocks, all were 383's and none of them had that hole there. It looks WAY too jagged to be a factory thing, and more like something punched through the block.

This made me think.. I have TTI headers, the drivers side #7 header requires you to use a slip joint in order to get it around the torsion bar... I wonder if that's leaking. Also, the Z-bar system was never a perfect fit, that alone may be hitting something. See, arent you guys glad we...

Yeah im not sure mine is the bushings in the rods, they are fairly tight. Oddly, I found out today that the noise quiets down a lot after 3000 rpm's. It's especially loud at 2500, but I cant get it on camera. The car is just too noisey with the exhaust haha. I'm going to be ordering some Comp...

Ill see if I can get a video of it tonight. I didnt think about the stamped arms slapping the valve spring retainers... that would make some sense considering how flat they are on the bottom. I was going to try putting my 273 adjustable rockers back on tonight to see what it did again...

I dont have a converter really, as its a 4 speed manual. I torqued all of my flywheel and pressure plate bolts to spec as well.

Oil pressure is great at 70lbs driving. It gets pleanty through the rocker shafts too.

I use 90 octane with Half a can of torco just incase. I also have 10:1 compression. It's not pinging if that's what you're getting at. I know the sound of that and I hear it whenever it pings. Usually that's at low rpm in 4th gear.

Yes the noise is still there without the valve covers. I also have the aluminum mopar performance ones, so that doesn't help increasing the noise volume. I also tried doing the, push on the rockers while the engine is running, trick to see if i could quiet it down. That didnt do anything at...

Hmmm I'm not positive it would be head gasket, as I've gone through a few sets now with rebuilds and new heads and such. Also forgot to mention that this is a hydraulic cam/lifter setup. Preload is set to .050. The idea for it being light coil bind does sound interesting though, I did check...

Ok, so I have a 1967 coded 340 block, It has the following in it: Eagle H Beam rods TRW 340 replacement pistons Lunati 60403 cam and lifters (a package/kit from summit racing) Edelbrock 340 Heads Summit 5/16th pushrods 7.5" long (Measured and fit with length checker) Stock stamped steel...

Being that you disconnected your vacuum advance and it went away, I'm lead to believe its a timing or possibly a distributor issue. Hell, maybe you even had a vacuum leak , like a cracked hose? Just a thought.

The starter relay looks like this. (Clean, and without wires on it) It should be to the left of the battery, attached to the inner fender.

Alright. I dropped my block off at the machine shop and they fixed the oiliing holes lining up. In fact, they replaced All the bearings and now they're perfectly aligned. I also got my new crank in and they are balacing that as we speak. Should be done next week! As for the oiling hole, I see...

So where is the oil suppose to come out of? Should I leave the top left hole open? Or go find a hollow bolt? The thrust plate that I have has 4 solid bolts, and the holes above the cam plate (the large openings) are raised, so oil wont be just dripping out of them. It would have to be shooting...

Thanks for the replies. Still not sure what to do about that half-covered cam bearing... will wait to hear more. As for the cam plate and plugs, I didn't have a hollow bolt with my original cam plate. Nor did the plugs have holes in them to allow any oiling to the timing chain. In the...

I have some questions regarding this block. I just got it back from the machine shop and theres a few iffy parts. See pics below for additional information/details. First: I would like to know if there's any special parts to the oil galley plugs, and such that have been missed? I took pics of...

Quick update: After asking around, I was able to purchase a Forged 340 crank for $510 shipped in town. They're friends who got me a nice guy discount through one of their parts sellers. So, problem solved!

The current crank is damaged beyond grinding. It's been ground twice and is now 20/20 and according to the machine shop is not salvagable by further grinding. I had oiling problems , bearings chewed up the crank pretty badly. It didn't just have scratches, it had gouges in it.

I looked at the Mancini stuff, it seems a bit on the high side for price. What I'm thinking about now is using a cast crank since it's been mentioned. My last question is, what would I need to change/do to switch from my forged 340 crank to a cast one? Rebalance everything (obviously)...

I need to get a new crank as oiling issues destroyed the last one. Thankfully, the rods turned out ok but the mains will need a line hone which will get done this week. So, I ask you. Given the prices of forged 340 Cranks.. What would it take to go Cast crank instead? Just balancing? Also...

Yeah that's a bummer man... As for the High Volume pump, its possible to empty the pan, but unlikely, and only at high RPM. With a High Volume, you have to run full, all the time, and its even recommended to add in a windage tray, and put in 5 quarts. Though, thats just what "some guys" say on...

I would just go with the stock bushings. For one, you will NEVER feel the difference in swaybars alone. You would have to replace everything on your suspension with poly bushings, or solid ones to get the feel and control they claim. Two, They WILL squeak eventually, and you'll have to add in...

Might I suggest a Lunati 60403 Cam? (Summit Link) Cam Style: Hydraulic flat tappet Basic Operating RPM Range: 1,800-6,200 Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 226 Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 234 Duration at 050 inch Lift: 226 int./234 exh. Advertised Intake Duration: 268 Advertised...