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Small block. I bought a Mopar performance 5.9 magnum short block, still sealed in it's crate from 1999. I'm a welder by trade, and haven't built an engine since 1997, but I would assume that it'd be a good idea to at least go thru it, and verify torque specs.The engine came with closed chambered...

Does anyone know of a reputable Mopar engine guy in the Phoenix area??

Does anyone know of a good Mopar engine guy in the Phoenix area?? I'm just going to drop it off with someone that knows their schitt.

Does anyone know of a good Mopar engine guy in the Phoenix area?? I'm just going to drop it off with someone that knows their schitt.

I was thinking the same thing with the intake. My friend would like to have it for his stock fuel injected magnum powered rock crawler. I could buy a dual plane to better fit my needs.

The dart currently has a 4 barrel stock 318 in it. I will obviously need a different flexplate and other ****. I was only looking for around 400hp cruiser motor/daily driver. This should meet most of my expectations when done. All of the additional upgrades will be suspension and drivetrain.

I agree 100% My dart has a freshly rebuilt 904 with a shift kit that probably won't last long under the new power, plus the 8 3/4 is one legged, and still has the slant 6 leaf springs.

That's what my intuition is telling me. But I'm sticking with the heads I have for now. Aluminum heads will be the next upgrade. I'm just looking to smoke my friend's 347 stroker in his '65 mustang

Thanks! I was looking at blueprint crate engines for a few weeks, I just couldn't bring myself to pay $6k for one.

Thx! The guy bought it for $4k years ago, never opened it, I got it for the divorce price of $2,500

That is what I'm thinking. Finding a Mopar shop in PHX is another endeavor. I'll be searching tomorrow.

No, I paid a little more than half of that.

It has never left the crate. The short block is solid & brand new. I'm just worried if the heads are good to just bolt on with stock parts. Not sure what is needed, online searches have all led to dead ends, with no real answers.

Here are the specs from the add....

I picked up this engine cheap here in AZ. The specs are in the pics below. It is a pristine magnum performance short block from 1999, was still wrapped in the bag in the blue crate. Came with heads and intake. This engine did not include rocker arms, lifters, lifter retainers or pushrods. My...

In my case, it was a bad battery. It was causing my alternator to charge constantly, blowing VR's left & right. I didn't suspect the battery since there was no other signs, like the starter dragging, or dim lights. Then, the battery just quit all of the sudden, wouldn't even turn over once. All...

Any thoughts? I've had 2 VR's go out, same failure at the fusable link. These were both NAPA VR32's.

Every legitimate question on this site, results in an informational prick waving contest of epic proportions. I receive a lot of info here....and I'm very thankful for that. It's just sad that simple questions can't be answered here anymore.

I drove my '69 dart 65 miles a day, all thru November. Had no problems, other than the $20 a day in fuel...

This is why I compare this site to WebMD. Always worst case scenarios first.....

Why is there no videos on here of the bypass?? People are using upwards of 60 posts, only to help no one. WTF? Thought this was the place to go? Wire diagrams mean nothing 2 me. Step by step instructions would be sweet.

Didn't mean to post. Srry

Got the brake lights working! Just have to fiddle with it a little more.

I bought the year one switch, installed today and it doesn't work. I went from havin brake lights only, to nothing after installation. I fear that I'm going to have to take the switch apart and tweak the "contact wires" until they are properly alligned. F'kin maddening!

So is this the same issue today? 5/7/19

Awesome. I have to look for the new races on youtube.

Your safest bet.....is to use either acetone, or isopropanol alcohol. It's not worth taking any chances, brake cleaner is for brakes, not weld prep.

I'd say you're doing it right. Aside from being able to reach, and weld prep ALL surfaces being welded. If possible, wire brush as much as you can, blow as much debris out that you can reach with compressed air. Maybe fabricate an "extension hose" attachment to your air gun to reach into tight...

Our shop is just starting a braze operation for Roll Royce. A lot of inconel 718.