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As long as you get one that will give you full access to the undercarriage and let you take the wheels off you should be good. The biggest question always is if you concrete floor is thick and strong enough to allow the lift to be securely mounted.

Any aluminum safe antfreeze will be fine.

Check you PM inbox!

I think the price is OK if it really looks as nice as it shows in the photos and has no hidden rust. You may want to state how old the paint job is and if the A/C works or is at least all there. Nice car.....I like it and good luck with your sale!

I guess there is no interior or any other parts besides the engines and transmissions? Just wondering because everything is missing but you don't mention any of that stuff. Did you disassemble the car or did you buy it the way it is?

I think you be better off putting the car together. I am not suggesting to spend any more money just assemble it as much as you can and get it running so it moves on its own. It will be much easier to sell; I been there. I wish I had the room to store all the stuff and I would buy it...

Forgot to mention: The pictures without the date stamp were taken the day of this posting, it was getting dark but I think you can see the condition of the car. Also, everything and all electronic accessories are working as they should.

I want another Mopar, A-body preferred and want to trade for my 2001 MB E320. Has 139800 miles on it (will go up as I drive it). new tires, windshield, motor mounts, transmission mount, all filters and fluids per MB specifications. Very clean, no leaks, funny noises, warning lights. Runs...

I see you have a lot of trade offers but you don't reply to them, I hope you at least PM those guys. All you do is ask if somebody has something to trade. Maybe you should be a little more specific and tell us what you are looking for...car line...big or small block...auto or stick????

Before even reading all the replies $10000.00 came right to my head, and I owned numerous old cars. Don't let it go under 10K....best year, best engine, A/C, and no or little work needed!

Great looking car at a great price. I bet you have at least half of your asking price in the engine alone. That ia super deal IMO!

Sold to krazykuda!

There isn't anybody in line because I didn't get any PM telling me that anybody is buying the manual. Also, this manual really consists of a service manual and a body manual, I attached photos of each seperate index. So, if you are in the market, please PM or email me. Note: I also have...

I have a service repair manual for sale in the Tools & Shop Supplies sub-forum. It is an OEM shop manual. Not sure if that was the right place for it.

Pictures added as requested!

I will add pictures shortly. As far as application goes......I don't know what it will fit. I do know that it worked in my 73 Dart, so I assume it will work in any A-body which has the rectangular speedometer.

I have a tested and working variable (3-speed) wiper switch for sale. It was a spare for my 73 Dart. Comes with mounting nut and chrome knob, clean and in perfect condition. Terminals are straight and clean, no corrosion. P/N 3488764 Asking $25.00 shipped!

Sold my Dart, so I no longer need this! 1973 Body Chassis Service Manual, covers Challenger, Dart, Charger, Coronet, Polara, and Monaco vehicles. Complete, no missing pages. The manual is almost 40 years old and shows signs of normal use like smudges or finger prints. Overall it is in...

ProCar Elite with correct ProCar A-body tracks. About $900.00 from Summit.

Thank you for the compliment. Here are some additional details: Engine is bored .040 over and short block was assembled by machine shop. It has a Mopar Purple Shaft (.484 lift), X-heads rebuilt, aluminum roller rockers, EDL Performer intake and EDL 650 AVS carburetor. Also has new Optima...

I have a 73 Dart Swinger, was a 318 car, but now has a 340 engine that I am considering selling. The car is totally restored. Body work & paint cost me 11K alone and is show quality. Also has all new interior, 340 engine w/less than 2000 miles, TF 904, 8 3/4 3.23 SG, SS springs, Helwig tubular...

Well, I did return the B&M to Summit Racing and get it exchanged for a TA SCS and the optional console (without switches). I was looking at the pictures mopardude318 posted here and I like the looks and where it is positioned in relation to the seats. I just have to figure out how I do the...

Interested in the shroud if Jim Ayers doesn't take it and it is for a 26" radiator. Please post the P/N for the shroud and price or PM me. Thanks

I am interested in the slide-a-link set up if it fits my 73 Swinger (8 3/4). Can you post the part number and maybe some pictures when you get ou the hospital? By the way, I hope is nothing serious and get well soon.

Well, like everything else...............a matter of opinion. I never had a TA so I can't speak for it. I did have Quicksilvers in two cars and liked them, they shifted smooth enough for me, a matter of routing the cable properly.

Thanks for all the input. I am sure the T/A is more functional in a race car, mine is just driven on the street ocassionally. It isn't near fast enough to take it to the track.

See last post.

Getting ready to upgrade my shifter (currently B&M Starshifter). I narrowed my choices to either a Turbo Action Cheetah or B&M Quicksilver shifter. I know that the cable routing on the TA is better, but I had several B&Ms and know how to route the cable properly. Never burned one since I use a...

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