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I have a single J head laying on my bench taking up space. It was ran on my 340 for about 10 miles until the other head dropped a valve and got beat beyond repair. It has new guides, 2.02/160 seats, and some minor gasket matching port work done. I am asking $150 plus shipping, or make me an...

I own an exhaust shop in central MN. I have done a few A bodies and B bodies. The drivers side tail pipe is time consuming because there isn't a lot of room next to the gas tank as mentioned in a previous post especially with 2.5" pipe. I don't use index cards, everything is custom bent. If...

I did pull the valve covers and spin it over to make sure the valve train was working. Everything looks like it is moving correctly. I didn't measure anything with a dial indicator. Guess I will have to finish the leak down test one of these days.

I guess I didn't think of checking the rest of the cylinders since #7 is the dead cylinder. I did the compression test and leak down test to confirm that it wasn't an ignition problem. Even if I finish the tests I will have to pull the heads regardless right? Is there any way to remedy it...

Finally got around to doing a compression test and leak down test. Compression is good, checked a few cylinders. Leak down test not so good. It is way off the chart on #7 cylinder. Didn't bother checking other cylinders. Next move is to pull the heads I guess. I didn't do any work to the heads...

Is that vacuum or mechanical secondaries?

At idle it is the same both under a load and not. Cruising down the road it does it under a load (headlights on or turn signal on) but when not under a load the gauge sits steady at 14v.

It is an electronic regulator, standard alternator with 2 field wires, MSD 6al ignition (not sure if that matters) and I completely rewired the engine bay. I haven't had time to try a new alternator or regulator yet, 2 jobs and more important life issues come first.

I owe you an apology. Sorry I flew off the handle about your comments. I realize you were merely trying to help remedy my problem. I constantly have people second guessing things I do, or telling me how to do things. After a while it builds up and I snap, it isn't anyone's fault but my own...

I just need to rant for a moment. I posted a question a long time ago (see "lights flicker and gauge jumps around???"). So now I have some dumbass telling me that it is my fault because I chose to upgrade something on my car. First of all I never asked for criticism about what I did. Second...

So are you saying that you have a bone stock all original car? You have never upgraded anything on your car? Everything is to factory specs? You must be busy on this forum if you critique every modification people make, engine builds, transmission swaps, rearend swaps, wiring, brakes, ect...

. I removed the ammeter because it burned out on me. I didn't feel like getting stranded again so I converted it. The factory did a lot of stupid **** and I have changed a lot of it. I don't recall anywhere in my posts that I asked for anybody's criticism about what I do with my car.

I still haven't remedied the problem yet. I need to try a new alternator yet, haven't had time to work on it.

Sorry guys, I have been busy and haven't had time to monkey with it lately. I am going to check compression and tear the carb apart fora good cleaning when I get time. Thanks again for the suggestions so far.

I am going to borrow a compression gauge tomorrow. I traced all of the wires to make sure none of them were swapped.

I finally got time to dig into it today. After running on high idle for 3-4 minutes I checked headder temps with IR heat gun right at the head. #1 259, #2 248, #3 290, #4 220, #5 165, #6 415, #7 95, #8 301. So #7 is for sure dead, I swapped plugs with #5 and no change. I swapped wires with #5...

By the way, the carb I have now is an edelbrock 1405 model which is only 600cfm. I plan on getting a 750 but wanted to work some bugs out first. It has been running good with the 600 so far.

Hey guys, sorry I haven't checked in for a couple days. I didn't get a chance to work on it yet, it has been raining since Saturday. The truck has been sitting for 2 years. I would start it occasionally to keep the oil flowing in the motor. When I finally got it on the road, a couple weeks ago...

Yesterday I drove my 67 D200 truck to my shop in the morning and it was running great. I fired it up to go home and noticed it was running rough. It sounds like it is not firing on all cylinders. It is a fresh rebuild to stock specs. The motor has about 100 miles on it now. It is a 67 383...

PM sent

Heartthrob makes a decent turbo muffler that sounds good, at least in my opinion. Some others might have different opinions. I own an exhaust shop and have installed a lot of them on people's classic cars and don't get any complaints. I would definitely get rid of the 2" and run 2.25" at minimum...

Will the water pump pulley work with a factory small block water pump? I am not sure what the long nose pump is?

Carolina total points 21

Will it work in a Duster? I am interested if it will.

Are the rockers still available? Do they come with the shafts? Can you send me a couple pics? Thanks.

Pm sent.

The fronts are 7" X 14" with 3 1/4" center hole and backspace is 3 3/8". The rears are 7.5" X 14" with 3 1/8" center hole and 3" backspace. I measured backspace from mounting flange to outer edge of the bead lip. They are dirty from sitting in my shed for a couple years but I think they would...

I have a set of 4 aluminum slotted mags that are unilug but they are all 14". I am not sure of the width off hand. The rear ones were on my 74 Duster until I found a set of 15" and the front ones were on a 68 GTX. I can measure the back spacing and width if you are interested. They are natural...

Put the HEI distributor in last night and the truck fired right up. Thanks for all the help. I didn't realize how easy it was to convert over from points to the HEI setup.

Ok. Thanks for the help everybody.