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When I worked with a Sioux valve/head rebuild machine, I found this brush type to be the most effective for carbon removal: Carbon Removal End Brush 1 1/8" It polished up the chambers real nice, but too aggressive for pistons tops.

There was an article in Automotive and Aviation Industries on Ford's "boneyard". They put a lot of old machinery to pasture over the years, and routinely it was resurrected and modified for retooling prior to a new design or model. I wish I could remember the name of the head of engineering who...

I found this fascinating Youtube of early production of cars. It's Chevrolet in this one, but methods were common to all manufacturers. I was lucky to read some editions of Automotive and Aviation Industries, an industry magazine catering to the airplane and auto industries at the time; and...

What's the difference between "Recent Posts" and "New Posts"? I see the same thing sometimes when clicking on either selection, whether or not they are new or have numerous replies.

My 1975 Stant Catalog and the 65 S.M. show a 14 lb. cap with a 180* t'stat. If it's holding at or below 190* on hot days or heavy driving as you put it, you are in fine shape. For the really hot ones, or pulling a grade, you'll need the spec'd cap.

A little A/C and it'll be fine

Me? Are you talking to me? :) No, it came from two sources; Fritz my Auto Shop instructor some 40 years ago, and employment at a foundry in Pa soon after.

Those are core plugs, not freeze plugs, frost plugs or some kind of block protection scheme. Very rarely, IF at all did they actually prevent block damage from freezing. When the block mold is poured, you need an access point to get the core casting sand out. Picks, rapping, vibrators all were...

It's all in the paint. :)

The rubber plugs are temporary fixes until real metal ones are installed. From the paint on them, it appears as a fix it and sell it.

reenactment of Duel?

I get it. From what I've read, it takes process now. It seems the expressed lien might fall under the "preliminary 20 day notice". It can still put the deadbeat in the cat bird's seat to answer to summons. But that's time away from the real work doing the filing/recording with the county or...

One shop we use specifies cash or credit card, no checks. No payment, no key. If the customer makes a scene, a call to the sheriff stops it. Most people go in knowing the "terms". If the shop has a soft heart, word gets around and deadbeats show up. Cheapskates are never happy no matter the...

It don't seem right that there's no process to collect, even in CA. I checked, and I have not found anything un-constitutional on Mechanic's Liens in ANY state. Can someone source or prove it? What has changed are the timings and procedures. It seems just filing and recordings are hurdles in...

Uh, his broke off at the block. What extraction grip is there that doesn't expand the tube while biting into it?

There are reference charts, materials, etc., that have amp draws for various electrical loads such as head lamps, tail lights, blower motors, and other stock equipment. You can also reference loads for cooling fans, sound systems, power seats, a/c clutches and on. Tally up the loads on one side...

No, that's not where this goes. It's locallized hot areas, particularly exhaust valve area or heads over siamesed cylinders, and also might have castings and restrictions the water would sooner not go around. The engine won't always over heat since there's enough cooler areas to keep things...

Anytime you run the engine: around the block, around the country, in a test lab, or your shop; there needs to be some kind of coolant flow control whether a stat, or an orifice plate to make sure flow gets to ALL parts of the block and head and not short circuit back to the pump.

The thermostat sets the floor of the cooling system, not the ceiling which is your problem. I would try another, not remove it. There can be more harm than good with no thermostat to balance flow through the block. Check the radiator fins. Clean them out with compressed air. Check the...

Drill rod will work better than a screw driver, BTDT. I'll shut up now too :) Waiting for pictures.

No, I am not saying fix the crack. All the epoxy will do is act as a sleeve when it's hardened; to help hold the tube. The release agent can come with the epoxy in a kit. If it's pretty thick in the block's wall where it goes through, it could be better to bust it off. Remove the remaining...

Those are not bad numbers. Unless I see smoke of any kind, hear knocking or noises of any kind; I'd run it like it is. Recheck those pressures warm and dry, then wet. Check oil pressures cold and hot, check the cooling system. If it all looks good, why spend the bucks? They don't come broke...

The tube is "pressed", or a friction fit, in the block. All the methods chosen would've expanded it more, and increasing the difficulty. Acquire some drill rod just a smidgeon smaller than the tube's OD. From the top side, drive the remnant piece out. Flush the bore out with brake cleaner...

Glad you made it home. Now I'm worried about the 65 Dart. I just noticed a passenger side "sag" in the front. The tires being equal height and inflation pressure, there's almost an 1 1/2" to 1 7/8" difference between right side and left side. I watched some Youtubes of the Oldtown cruise...

If you "pressed" the original hub out of the drum, then probably at this age the studs were not still swaged; the drum could've been stuck on the hub. Clean up the replacement hub, especially around the machined edge of the center. Clean the drum too. It should fit together without a lot of...

Nap Time?!! oh to be a woodpecker onna downspout :) :)

Special tool? I've seen pinch off tools for cooling systems and fuel line "advertised" as for brake line clamps; but that does not make it right. YMMV, and it's your iron, your life but the right way is just plug it. Golf tees work pretty good or a female fitting just screwed hand tight.

NEVER pinch hydraulic hose. Even though brake hose could be classed as low or medium pressure hydraulic hose; you can damage the inner liner with pinching or kinking. This "shortcut" is only done by less-than-stellar or un-informed mechanics.

I had a similar sitch with my 65 Dart. All the wheels bled fine except the left front. The brake line went from the "D" block down and around the frame member and up to the support clip; made a "U" bend down about an inch or so to the flex line connection. The flex line to the wheel cylinder...

Here it is, the job is finished and working perfectly. I was able to locate the appropiate lever arm for the transmission. The stud one is the original, the one I required is next to it. Same length, and almost the same angle of the D hole. This way an OEM part is saved for future use by me or...