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Still workin on it. Welding up an oil pan right new before reassembling the v10. I’ve also got to rework the coolant system. It’s the little things that take so much time.

I’m using off the shelf rods and pistons with my 426 combo.

Finally got the short block assembled! DIY Mopar 426 STROKER - FULL Short Block Assembly

I’m trying to score a set of 915 heads which, is difficult to do here in CA. Ideally, I’ve got about $800 max to throw at the heads. New valves and maybe even valve seats would be priority if budget allowed.

I’m using Icon pistons with a 1.48 compression height and Scat 6.70” rods. Turned the rod journals down to 2.2”

Not necessarily after fit. The lighter weight is a plus but, I’m mainly after engine characteristics. I LOVE the free spinning nature of the 340. I’m hoping to achieve the same characteristics with extra cubes for a bigger punch

With the core shift issues prevalent in the 400s, I really wanted to limit it to .03-ish. I did have the block sonic checked as I was curious how much I could go. Anymore than .04 over and I would’ve needed to sleeve cylinder #4 for a 500hp + build.

The $1600 includes the rings and bearings. I do still need to balance the crank which is gona cost me another $125. I’m aim for a 5k overall budget for the long block. Still not sure what I’m going to do for heads but, I’m leaning towards some 915s or worked 452s. I doubt I could squeeze in...

Same stroke. Reason for the 383 crank is to get a forged unit. When the rod journals are offset ground it increases the stroke from 3.38 to 3.545. Rod journals are now 2.2”

Chevy size, yup. I’ve gone big stroke in the past and it didn’t really meet expectations. Wanting to try something different.

So the rotating assembly has cost me $1600. It’s half the cost of a 440 source stroker kit. In addition to gaining 26 cubes, it also maintains a large over-square configuration. I’m hoping this adds to the high revving nature I’m planning/aiming for.

Can’t seem to find anything on the web about one of these. Any of you build one? Taking this opportunity to test out a long rod ratio. From my assessment, it seems like a reliable combo that would love to rev. What do you think? Doing this as a budget build for a YouTube challenge. -offset...

27 Year Old VIPER Crate Engine Teardown - Operation Venomous Fish

Dealerships would mistakenly order an entire crate engine in 1996 due to the part number being 1 digit different than the viper red touch up paint haha

Finally opened up the V10. Those intake ports are MASSIVE! Dodge Viper Intake Manifold Removal

Right?!?! I’m really happy with it. Now I’ve just got to get that v10 installed!

Decided to call in some help on the firewall and trans tunnel. Coming along GREAT!

It’s a lot easier to film the entire process, upload it in 1 location, then share it. As you can imagine, it would be a TON of typing. I use my phone primarily and haven’t had a laptop in years. Thumb can’t work that fast lol. It looks like I got lucky with this plug. I can even hear the...

I’m getting a lot of oil in that cylinder but, I think I got lucky with that plug. Bought my lottery ticket today

Well I found out that the last owners of my newly acquired 1999 Dodge Ram 1500 didn’t believe in changing out their spark plugs. One of the plugs decided to go AWOL the other day. What do you think this 360 magnum is dealing with right now? Not too fond of non-foulers.

You know some of the summit brand mufflers are pretty much rebadged flowmasters. If I wasn’t in a pinch for time, I would’ve looked up some cheaper alternatives

For anyone curious as to what a warmed up 318 sounds like with either a pair of Cherry Bomb Turbos or some Flowmaster 40 series, I made a quick comparison video. This junkyard dart is getting closer to a clean street cruiser than the junkyard mess I first started with. Flowmaster 40 Series vs...

It’s got a cracked valve seat on #3 so, I’m still crossing my fingers that the newly sealed intake keeps the oil clean this week. Still want to have a little more fun with this junkyard build before it’s time to break it down.

I noticed that when I pulled it off too. Tough building cars when you’ve got little kids. I don’t remember the day of the install but, I’m often getting pulled away for diapers, bottles, etc. I used rubber units the last time so, hopefully that helps.

I’m taking it to/from work and around town for errands this week. Checking the oil after every trip. Maybe 50 miles so far and no signs quite yet

Well, I sent her a little too hard during my last track visit. I think I may have found the coolant leak source but, I’m not 100% sure. You all see anything I may have missed?

Operation Venomous Fish is coming along nicely! In order to stuff that v10 into an A-body I had to ditch the torsion bars and go with a coil over setup. After many months of researching, I decided to go with the Gerst setup (now owned by QA1). I shot a video of the install and pointed out a few...

Convertibles running 8.49 or faster need an 8 point cage. I just have a 4 point roll bar that I welded up.

Yup. His first pass was an 8.4 then an 8.6. Not sure if he had traction issues on that second one or not. I think the Dart can hit 8.5 with some springs, from wheels that fit, and a converter. Any faster than that and I’ll be booted from the track.