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I've never done this before and I hope someone here has and can shed some light on my question. How much of the carb should I tear apart to have it ultrasonic cleaned? It's a Holley 750 DP, I'll be removing the floats and what not, but should I be tearing out the linkage as well? Should I leave...

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1970/70ValiantDusterA.JPG http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1970/70ValiantDusterB.JPG

Looks like he deleted the stock NSS and is most likely running the park/neutral ground from the shifter.

Like everyone is recommending here, you're going to need to grab the factory wiring diagram to start diagnosing any issues right now. MyMopar.com is a great resource for this. The thing about this is now you're gonna go down the rabbit hole and 30-40+ years of molested wiring will do nothing...

Wicked resolution to an otherwise dire situation! Props to Sedanman!!

Sorry a little off topic, I'll get a pic up ASAP, but how'd that checkerboard flooring work out for you? Does it leak spills through the connection joints? Looking at doing something like this myself.

1974 but the motor is a 1972 340. Either way, I was working on the ammeter bypass today and the wiring harness has melted wire jackets (on the POWER runs!!) and was hacked to **** by the previous owner.. I'm surprised this hasn't burnt to the ground yet. Ordering a Ron Francis kit...

Sorry to resurrect this old thread, but I'm literally pulling my hair out here as I can't find fusible link anywhere. The stealership wants an arm and a leg for fusible link (1+ weeks to have it shipped in), and Mogre is saying primary wire can be used as a fusible link (remember we're in...

**** man thanks for taking the time to compile all that material, it's exatly what a guy needs to do this on his own. I'm feeling up to the task to rebuild this trans myself. I'll be sure to update this thread along the way, and I'm sure I'll have lots of questions. Either way lets get this done.

Thought about it PoisonDart74, just wouldn't want to frig up all those new components and be negative again at square one. Checked out a few resources online but nothing with a clean step-by-step. Could you recommend a manual or resource to do this?

UPDATE: Been driving the car for a few days, seems fine minus first gear. Will be dropping the trans sometime this weekend or early next week, quotes to have this rebuilt are high (which sucks) and going back to a 727 is no go. Will post what we find when it's cracked open.

The first gear problem occurred just before I parked it and I knew I'd have to deal with it when the season came around. Reverse works fine, checked the linkage and it bottoms out properly in first. Gonna drop the pan and check the fluid to see if there's any clues there.

So I jacked the back end up, tires do in fact spin when I'm neutral but if I hold the wheel down I can stop it from spinning (can feel a bit of force). When in first (with the car running) the wheels don't spin nor can I spin them manually by hand they feel locked. What would this tell us?

AJ thanks so much for this, this is exactly what I was after so we can isolate the problem (I just went through a bunch of electrical diagnosing and thanks to 67Dart273 I was able to work things out cause he gives great steps on problem isolation). I'm going to run these tests you've given...

Hey guys, just trying to get this figured out. I did try searching but came up with lackluster answers so I'm hoping I can get some insight into some good troubleshooting tips. I have a 74 Duster that came with an A518. Cars been sitting for a while now, finally got around to firing it up but I...

Yep 2-3volts. Damn you're good I now know who to talk to when battling gremlins on this Mopar. Cheers.

Great tip this helped verify it was the alternator.

Good news guys, it was the alternator. Had some time this morning before we left camping so I picked up a new one and installed it, fired her up and no more problems. Looks like it's charging better too. Thanks for the help, hope this thread helps someone else in the future. Andy

Yea that's what I got from those pictures, thanks for clarifying though. Anyways I disconnected the tach and took her for a spin and the issue is still there. I then came back and split the entire harness along the back of the firewall apart and isolated the 2 distributor wires to the ECU...

Forgive me for my lack of technical includes as Mopars are all new to me (so is V8/carb/distributor type ignitions). Single point or dual point dist - how can I tell? A quick google has yielded nothing to help me along here. Yes the alternator is an isolated field type with a 70/later...

I'd like to hear more about this. I can see there's a yellow wire/black stripe that's soldered to a yellow wire, yellow wire runs to a plug on the firewall which obviously goes into the cabin.

Ran your tests and everything checked out.

Stock ignition system, no pickup wire between an ignition box because I don't have one, regulator is mounted on the passenger side fender, ignition resistor is located on the driver side firewall.

There's a nice fat ground between the block, the battery and the body. It's definitely something to do with the voltage regulator - it runs way better with it disconnected. I noticed there's an ammeter on the dash with a +40/-40 gauge sweep. Can this cause any problems?

So this is the issue I'm having and can't find a thread to help get me started on a diagnosis or to actually cure the problem. I've come to a few of my own conclusions but maybe someone can chime in. Car: 74' duster with a 340 out of a '72 Problem: spark breakup attributed to the voltage...

Will do. Holley seems to be the goto when modding a drawthru carb for blowthru, I'll probably give holley a go on my second shot.

Just an update: I opened up the carb and there was no nitrophyl floats, the throttle shafts weren't sealed, normal jetting/metering and no vent tube mods so it's safe to say this carb needs to be modded. I purchased all the corresponding parts that I figure I'll need using this great thread as...

I imported a Duster with a 340 and a Paxton SN2000 last year, the previous owner seems to have cut a few corners that I keep coming across as I work on this thing so before I actually drive this guy around I want to ensure everything is in check. I have an Edelbrock EPS 800 series carb, manual...

I imported this car into Canada from Ohio and I cannot pass inspection with the tiny stress cracks in the original lenses. Pretty big piss off considering the originals really are in great condition. Cost was about $250 with shipping if I remember correctly from http://www.rpmparts.ca/ No I...

I managed to get the gasket on there without caulking and just reached around the housing and pushed the gasket in as needed when the bezel was somewhat tight. Fit seems good now, just had to crank down on the nuts to ensure a tight seal.